After two exciting days the travel routine came back with a smooth ride to Helsinki, the capital of Finland. In the morning I stopped at a fuel station outside St. Petersburg (Diesel was the cheapest of all countries, 0,60 €/l). They also had coffee and croissants. Good start of the day.
The closer Helsinki came, the worse the weather became. On arrival I tried to circle the city for some land marks, but in vain. Rush hour and rain killed any motivation and I looked for my planned Camping site.
It was a good opportunity for some house keeping including laundry activities. And hoping for the next day to reveal the secrets of Helsinki.
After a peaceful night and thanks to my Russian friend’s help with the Metro card I managed to reach the city center and walked to the Eremitage.
The Eremitage does not need any comment or rating. Its reputation is known all over the world. Just one word: after Peterhof the day before here was another indescribable collection of beauty, history and fine arts.
My parking spot was in walking distance to the entrance of Peterhof, the famous summer residence of Zar Peter the Great. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schloss_Peterhof It is impossible to describe in words or in photographs neither the grand design, the insurmountable beauty, the elegance, the tranquility nor the vastness and the hidden secrets and jewels of that place. It is surely on the same level as Versailles near Paris.
Entrance and first gardens:
Excellent water features all around.
The only little mishap for me was that I lost my bifocal glasses and could not find them 5 min after the incident. I walked back to my vehicle drove to the shopping mall nearby and found a shop which had reading glasses, what a piece of luck.
My next priority was to visit the Ermitage in the city. Interpreting the road signs as good as possible I looked for a bigger hotel to maybe stay on their parking lot. I found the Park Inn and went inside to ask.
They offered me their secured and enclosed parking for a nominal fee. Another piece of luck. The security guard allowed me even to plug in my electric connection cable. It was not posh, but safe and sound to stay there for another two nights. Never mind that the restaurant had German Weißbier… Another piece of..
Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg Share my reservation 4 Lit. A, Goncharnaya Street, St. Petersburg,191036,Russian Federation
I did not stay at the Hotel, but in the road behind it.
As I mentioned a couple of times I had no functioning navigation and it took me all morning to find a place near the center of St. Petersburg and parked my motor-home in a parallel road of a main avenue and started to walk around and found an orthodox Church under renovation…
Isaakskathedrale
Decided to try the subways and explore where the Eremitage could be. Again weak preparations, lessons learned. Did not understand the process to buy a ticket and find directions in the subway. A young Russian gentlemen saw my misery and helped me to get the travel card which must be loaded with money. He said he is going to the maritime museum and I asked to join him as it was far too late for the Eremitage anyway. He agreed and we had a jolly good time walking to museum, inside and walking back.
On the way back I cought a glimpse to the famous Museum.
Eremitage
Miraculously I found my parked motor-home after using the subway back and drove towards the west to Peterhof which I wanted to visit next day. From the main street I always check the side roads to find other motor-home travelers and I was lucky once again near the Samson Hotel.
Found a quiet Cul de sac with a small security hut including a watchman. I asked him in English and with hand and feet whether I could park for one night. He agreed without hesitation. Later I found out I was in fine company in between the two buildings Konstantinovskiy Dvorets and Dacha Lindstrema.
*** I think I left on time, found my way out of town and had another smooth sail towards the north. Drove endless miles along the “Rigischer Meerbusen” but had only very seldom a view to it. Drove only 306 km with probably a “one-stop-strategy”.
Checked into Tallinn City Camping and again took the bike to ride to town. See for yourself what happened.
A great Tuesday with bright weather ideally suited for a bike tour around the city center. The location of Riga City Camping supports that to 100%. As so many times on this trip, I found a place well organised, very relaxed, well kept and a symbiosis of land and sea, of old and new, of civilization and nature.
Summary of the day: Transit from Kaliningrad to Riga. Short border process, short stop over in a small town. Found Riga City Camping easily.
Riga City Camping Personal Rating: 5/5 https://www.latvia.travel/de/unterkunft/riga-city-camping
Leaving Kaliningrad was much easier than coming in. I was rather close to the main exit road and headed north-east to Riga. Also the border process at Tilsit was smooth and soon I was in Lithuania.
Tilsit
Bridge over river Memel
Into Lithuania
Border Bridge Short stop over in Siauliai
Siauliai
Siauliai Cathedral
From the E 77 to Riga, smooth sailing though in gusty winds on superb road network. But when the trucks came, their draft pushed my motor home left, right and center 🙂
Today only 165 km to Kaliningrad. Dull and rainy weather but excellent roads and bridges and low traffic volume.
I believe my data volume on my Austrian contract has already been exhausted and I did not have any Russian map on my Garmin Navigation Set. Luckily I printed the GPS coordinates of the camp site during my preparations. Garmin provided at least the present coordinates of my vehicle online. It was very demanding to watch and analyse the running numbers on the screen and behave well in traffic at the same time. Round about lunch time I found my hotel which has a motor-home parking area attached.
The camp site is very basic but electricity is available and the site manager was very helpful and friendly. The shower was only in the basement of the hotel and was clean and efficient. Luxurious would be a slight exaggeration though.
From Hotel Baltica to town with public transport bus:
At the reception of the hotel I changed some money and got advice how to use the bus which had a station in front of the hotel. I decided to go for it and found an elderly lady as conductor selling the tickets. I was not in the mood to ask everybody whether they speak English so I was just riding the bus and got off when it looked to be in the center. I strolled around in the the mist, shot a few pictures, had a coffee and cake in a shopping mall and looked for the bus again. As I took the wrong direction, I fulfilled a complete round of that line back to the hotel.
Some green areas in between
In the case of Kaliningrad my motivation to go there on route to the North Kapp was uncertain from the outset. Finally I decided to ‘”take it with”. But my preparation was half hearted and I missed the “Bernstein Museum”, the Aquarium and surely many other attractions. There will be another window in the future.
Other than in St. Petersburg, which is really a large and busy Metropole, or in Helsinki, which was ok to walk, the bicycle strategy worked also exceptionally well in Danzig (Gdansk).
One is tempted to risk a preview to future places to visit along the north and east sea: the “Hansestädte”. It is all about “time-travel”, isn’t it? Within this journey Kaliningrad (Königsberg), Riga and Tallin (Revel) will still feature. In 2019 Stettin, Greifswald, Stralsund, Rostock, Wismar, Hamburg and Utrecht will follow. They all made their fortunes with sea freight trade with their “Hanse-Kogge” and their wealth is visible still today in no uncertain terms.
Nordeuropa und die Hansestädte um 1400 Courtesy Wikipedia
This is only the beginning of the 9,500 km journey around to Scandinavia, but already now I am overwhelmed again and again from the beauty I meet everywhere.
Fringe harbor
Sitting at the dock of the bay.
Residential wharf
Old trading channel
Old warehouse
Sunny side
of the sea
Posh old town
all over
With Google Maps I could not locate the Domo Oliva accurately enough so I asked a fellow cyclist. He said it is anyway my direction, follow me. When he had to stop, he pointed me in the right direction and it was close.
On day one I did 600 km and on day 3 as well. From Krakau to Danzig you cross Poland from south to north and enjoy the views of passing trucks, elegant bridges and country side after country side intercepted by some settlements.
Start in time
Take records
I arrived in late afternoon, found a good spot on the camping ground, took a short stroll and relaxed after this long stint.
As I mentioned at the end of 31.05.2017, I arrived late at the camping ground, it was dark already. In the bright morning light I had a pleasant surprise finding myself in a park like environment.
Barbacan
Krakow Planty
I took my bicycle and followed Google Maps to the nearby Old Town. I was so surprised to find a spotless and beautifully restored jewel of a city. One palace followed the other, the same for the churches and cathedrals and castles. All over lush and green parks and recreation areas to recharge the batteries. The river Weichsel cuts through the city and offers great views and water leisure.
He was here.
Wieża Ratuszowa
St. Mary
Wawel Castle
River “Weichsel”
Cloth Halls (Tuchhallen)
Needless to say that there are plenty of charming restaurants and street cafes which invite for refueling and letting the time stand still.
The days of research and planning were over. Today the Russian Consulate in Vienna promised the VISA for Kaliningrad and St. Petersburg to me and finally I could begin the first long journey in my new motor-home. One hopes in such a new situation to have packed all necessary items to survive more than a month.
Cockpit
Starting mileage
Ready to go in Haag
As I decided rather late to include Kaliningrad and St. Petersburg into the destinations the VISA application became time critical. So I started my journey on the day they promised the paper. I had to go via Vienna anyway. Fortunately I found quickly a parking space, bought the parking ticket in a Tobacco Kiosk (little tricky in Vienna) and managed the collection on time.
Schallaburg on route to Vienna, Vienna, Slovakian border *
Věstonická National Park Lake
in Slovakia
Originally I planned to drive about 400 km on day 1 to Hranice in Slovakia. But the excitement to be on the road eventually pushed me further. Second destination was Krakau in Poland and I went for it. I collected then 600 km. Needless to say despite the excitement I was very tired and very happy that my navigation led me perfectly to the camping ground near the old town.
The dream to once in my life visit the North Kap was quite long standing. The idea to do it in a motor-home developed rather quick. After considering air travel plus rental car or public transport or railways plus buses or even in a normal passenger car and hotels it dawned on me that a motor-home could be the answer for flexibility, simplicity, efficiency, lifestyle and adventure.
As I do the documentation on my new website only in 2020, I had to dig into my notes and previous papers. I found tons of material in preparation. I searched and found one or two campsites for every day of the journey. And I planned with plus/minus 30-35 days. It was worth every minute of time I spent for that. The number of days demanded to drive between 200 and 600 km / day.
Summary:
I visited 11 countries in 33 days with distance of 9.562 km which averages to 382 km/day in 25 days of driving. In 8 days I did not drive. As it was my first long journey with the motor-home it was very exciting and rewarding. Scandinavia is so different from my previous destinations e.g., around the Mediterranean Sea or Africa and Asia, much more relaxed and tranquil. Latest touching on the “Lofoten Island Group” I knew: I will be back.
My motor-home:
Sleeping
FIAT DUCATO ROTEC
Dining
Total cost:
Remarks: The total cost per day differ from the table of purpose. The reason is for the last 8 days my wife accompanied me from Stockholm to Haag and I could not separat the single items. Data roaming Russia: Also telephone data roaming cost in Russia I paid only later are added separately. I did not check the tariffs before and used Google Maps. That exceeded my data limit quickly and I they shut off my account until my wife paid in for me in between. Toll stations are not visible, they operate electronically. One has to apply into the system upfront. I received 15 fines 2 weeks after returning and negotiated as good as I could. Finally I was lucky to get away with paying 27 Euros from 268.
That means, as a single traveler I needed 90,54 Euros per day excluding wife and data or 110,77 Euros including.
Only recently Russia introduced an online Visa Process for St. Petersburg. But in 2017 it was rather cumbersome and I managed only with the help of a friend, who lived in Moscow for some years, to obtain it in a rather short amount of time before departure.
In August 2013 we took our niece Laura to Paris for her “Confirmation” of her faith (in the Catholic Church in Amstetten). We had a great outing with good weather and covered most of the attractions in the Metropole.
15.08.2013 Paris
The panorama shots endeavour to portray the incredible size and beauty of Paris.
A couple of days skiing to South Tyrol is always exciting because of the bizarre landscape of the Dolomite Alps. Our Hotel Chalet Elisabeth was very close to the pists and lifts and offered excellent facilities and service. Any time again.
The ARGUS Cycling Race in Cape Town in South Africa is organized by the Rotary Club Fremont of Cape Town and hosts about 30.000 cyclists. It leads from the center of Cape Town around the Cape Peninsula and is possibly the most beautiful cycling race in the world… Distance is 109 km, 1.000 m uphill. I think my first attendance was in 1992. Until 2020 I finished 11 times. in 2017 it was cancelled due to gail force winds and in 2018 I was there but could not start because of a bad flue.
They organisation is extremely professional and they provide super statistics:
06.03.2016, Cape Town
Meeting another Franz from Germany
Detailed preparation
Collecting starter kit in Green Point Stadium
Excitement before the start
Up Chapman’s Peak
A little finished after the finish
Recovered at Muille Point
10.03.2017: Cape Town Blown in the wind …
Practicing on the evening before the race around Kloofs Neck and before at Houte Bay / Chapman’s Peak.
Race cancelled due to gail force winds.
12.03.2018: Cape Town Withdrawn because of a bad flue …
I could not and still cannot imagine a more romantic destination for a wedding trip than the South of France. Cote d Azur (Blue Coast), Camargue and Provence are the “provinces” of beauty and tranquility. We traveled a big circle against the clock starting from Nice and Monte Carlo to the West with Cannes, St. Tropez, Marseille, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, Arles, Avignon, Orange, Gorge du Verdon, Grass and back to Nice.
Day 33 for the records. The new plan was to drive to Postojna in Slovenia, visit the caves which I had missed in Paklenica and then carry on to Grado in Italy and the next day to the “3 Zinnen” before returning to Haag.
Coastal road Croatia
Phase I was rather comfortable to drive up to Slovenia, pay the minimum road tax of 15 Euros and visit the Postojna Caves. Only the parking cost of 10 Euro was a bit disappointing. Paid then 25,80 Euro for the caves with German speaking guide. They take you on a small train about 10 minutes into the cave and then walk you for about one hour and back with the train. Needless to say the site enjoys UNESCO world heritage status and they deserve it to the full extent. Infinite numbers of shapes and forms and still similar in so many ways. As usual in sits like this, e.g. the Antelope Canyon in the US, there is not much time to take great photos. You have to be quick and creative to find the best angle… Then the next group is catching up with yours.
Entrance to Postojna Caves
Miracles
inside
the caves
Sellable
wonders outside
Back outside was a thunderstorm which reduced my desire to go back to the coast to Italy. I checked distance and arrival time to return to Haag today. All acceptable. Off we go. Went via Ljubljana, Villach and the Tauernautobahn via Salzburg to the Westautobahn direction east. All top highways and smooth sailing when you manage to stay concentrated all the time an top every two hours.
I reached Haag at about 20:30 and realized only at arrival that I drove more than 600 km that day. I surprised Ingrid and we had a good laugh.
Day 32 for the records. You cannot imagine what an eventful day this one would become. I was up early at the camp side and had an extended morning prayer. That is a great start into the day. Found my destination only in Google Maps, not in Garmin, it was the waterfalls of the river Una being the border between Croatia and Bosnia Herzegovina. From the coast to the back country you always must conquer some mountain passes which always need attention and always are picturesque. I think I reached over 1.000 m altitude once more.
Camping near NP Paklenica
Peaceful morning
Google Maps mentioned that partly there would be terrible road conditions towards the Una river. They did not overstate. But if you know beforehand it is half as bad. Recorded a short video clip and had actually good fun. My expectations were that at the river would be quite some tourism structure and busyness. The closer I came the narrower the road became. Just to change into a sand one and later to forest pathway. The road clearance was only as wide as to allow me to turn around if necessary. When the road led downhill and had sharp bends I became a little nervous but carried on. It was now too late for any U-turn. Suddenly I saw a sign board with a display of the waterfalls. I did not think anything would come my way. A few meters later I was near the river and found a small parking area of about 100 m2. At this spot was no tourism structure or anything similar. Remember traveling means to compare our imagination with reality. What a day.
NP Una Falls
I parked my friend pointing towards the way back, took my camera and all important documents into the back bag an started to walk along the foot path, crossed thorough the railway tunnel and only then saw the river. From here it was a beautifully maintained garden like area very pleasant for the eye. Just nobody around. I recognized a CCTV surveillance system installed and carried on. It was now obvious that I was upstream of the waterfalls and my excitement grew slowly the closer I came to the edge.
Already at this point in time I observed a much better infrastructure on the other side of the river in Bosnia Herzegovina. They had various wooden foot bridges and paths along the river and the falls for a surely much better view. And later when I carried on to the town of Bihac it became clear it was only a matter of crossing the border and drive max. 20 km upstream. Maybe Google Maps could suggest this as an alternative route in the future. It kept me on the Croatian side.
Needless to say that words cannot describe the beauty of the falls. There are two main cascades and one coming from the side across splitting into many little streams and falls. A view for the gods producing a lot of endorphins in my body and soul. Actually there was a small hut like house exactly at the edge of the falls. Nobody to be seen still. I climbed the path upwards to catch photos from all possible angels including to walk a short distance on the rail tracks. Soon I headed back to the motor home.
Surprise visit
I was about to start the engine when two police cars rushed down from the forest road stopping next to me. Ups, funny feeling but I remained quite calm. One of the second car first spoke to one from the first car and then came over to me. I had my passport and car and insurance papers already in my hand and got out of the car. What do you do here? Visiting the falls and taking pictures. Aha. Do you mind that I check your car? Not at all, please come in. OK. Do you know why we check you? No. Because of all the refugee movements. Ah, all clear. Did you like what you saw? Yes, VERY MUCH. Smile. Save journey. Thank you. The drive back up the forest road needed lots of attention, but less than the situation with the police.
Garmin led me to the nearby border posts and it was a smooth process again. Just on the Bosnian side I nearly fainted. Approaching the passage on the right side of the small building I hear a nasty scratching noise above my head. And I saw to customs officials looking up quite concerned. Immediately I imagined my upper side wall to be pierced or punctured or fractured and was short of a heart attack. I reversed away from the building with the two officials not looking less concerned. Then I went out to check. First I handed over my passport and looked at the gutter and found three brackets moved and the front closing plate broken with a big gap. Then looked at my car. Nothing to see. Hmm. I started apologizing and said I will have to pay for this. What followed was so funny that I lough my head off still today. The two had some conversion in their language. Then the one said: Camper OK. The other one came with a long broom stick and fiddled at the gutter which did not move. I said again, hmm, it is a big problem. The first one said, big problem? No problem and handed the passport back to me. I said again, I am very sorry. The second one answered, we are happy, that you are sorry. And all the three of us laughed heartily. What do you say? Can you imagine the worst case scenario?
Bihac was only a few kilometers away and I found a small parking lot near the main bridge over the river Una. To fit the motor home into the space was a peace of art with a little help from my friends (a student passing by). Had the coins for the meter and opted for a snack at the terrasse restaurant across the small street.
Relaxed bihac
I realized soon that Bihac was only interesting in the vicinity of the bridge. Walking around lasted about 25 minutes and it was mid afternoon. Thought to look for the camping ground and relax for the rest of the day. Then I found out that relaxing I can do when I am old and decided to move back to the Croatian coast. I had not appetite yet to drive north west towards Austria.
Of course it is repetitive to write about driving back another two passes with stunning views before reaching the coast. Just at the first roundabout was the sign to the camping ground in Zengg. Moved into the passage, stopped because it seemed very narrow ahead. A couple in the distance waved that I can make it. They were from Australia and had hired a camper in Munich. They also were not excited about the many Germans in the camping ground. I found my spot in the second row back to the wall. In the first row at the sea side was such a bright reflection from the sinking sun that it was more disturbing than romantic.
Day 31 for the records. Short fruit and yoghurt breakfast at home and off to Trogir for a morning excursion. Parking well organized again. What can I say? Another romantic and charming small old town area with the morning preparations of the shop and restaurant owners. Choose a restaurant at the church square for the second breakfast and watched the Japanese tourists photographing their wifes and friends. Sometimes this is just a pleasure (see below). Set navigation to Paklenica National Park near Zadar and Starigrad. First stretch long uphill country road then the top highway A1. I cannot describe it differently than smooth sailing with cruise control.
Trogir in cloudy conditions
Better weather
Better mood
As the road to the park became rather narrow I asked a couple in a restaurant garden. They were from Austria from the province of Steiermark. Later I met a dozen of them. They drove a motorhome as well and gave green light for the narrow road ahead. Reached the gate, went for the ticket only to learn that my main motivation to come was closed since half an hour, the famous “water dripping” caves. A little disappointed I asked for a hike achievable in the afternoon. A very charming lady guide gave me good advice and sent me off on a trail. Had to park 2 km inside and was a little proud of myself how quick and efficient I was prepared for the adventure.
Friendly welcome
Last spot
Just at the very beginning of the trail were a dozen of Steiermark boys and girls busy at the “climbing garden”. Had a short chat with some, took the pics and headed off into the gorge. Buy the way, the rock walls were nothing short of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, just not that high and wide.
Charming
Climbers
I went next to a wild water river and the gorge remained very narrow only widening later. Many more people came downwards, I overtook only a few upwards. The countryside stayed impressive all the way up. As a little “proof” of it, many scenes of the Winnetou films were shot here. Needless to say that at a fork I choose the opposite side from which I should have following the lady’s recommendation. So instead of about 450 m altitude I reached 620 m. A narrow margin anyway. Up there I met Adi and Robert who were part of the party of Steiermarkers, but of my age. Great company on the way down, great conversation and good fun.
Impressive
Scenery
Later I found the camping ground and a stand 20 m from the shore with a sunset from the fairytales. My stand neighbour without asking helped me to roll the vehicle onto the levelling blocks at the rear axle. He measured the water temperature at 14 dgr because of cold mountain streams coming in. I tested the waters, and he was right… Long chat to the owner of a Land Rover Defender. They can tell stunning stories. Sunset dinner.
Day 30 for the records. One month on the move. As I had a bad night I again started slow in the day. Decided to drive to the center of Split to look at Diocletian’s Palace and the surroundings in the city. After that my target was Solin where there are also Roman excavations and from early Christianity. For the late afternoon I selected Trogir, a smaller city on the shore, just nearby. I needed a slow day. It worked out all well.
Day 29 for the records. Took it easy after the late arrival yesterday and the shorter night. Used the Wifi to catch up some recording and left for town about 11:00 am. After one larger circle found parking near old town for 5 Mark / hour = 2,5 Euro. Paid then 7,5 Mark. Walked to the Bazaar and passed a chess game in the park and the usual pedestrian zone scenery. Asked for direction to “The Bridge” (another one if you check yesterday). But the Latin Bridge in Sarajevo is hiding tons of tragedy. On or around it Crown Prince Franz Ferdinand and his wife were assassinated in 1914. The resulting events are all too well known.
A little rustic
and high above town
Morning view from Camping Ground high above town
Active chess
on church square
Relaxed market
City Hall
Assassination Bridge
I enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere of the inner city very much, took my time to stroll around and found (again) a posh coffee restaurant with excellent Wifi and did some work. I re-visited some alternative sites for the way back home and made some changes to the routing (again). Instead of country roads in Bosnien Herzegowina to Bihac I voted to do country roads, but back to the coast first, to Split. Then to National Park Paklenica and after that to National Park Una. Only then to Bihac, Zagreb, Graz and Haag.
Paklenica is supposed to host magic caves an Una waterfalls and gorges. As I had to pass the National Park in Rumania I thought I can catch up with some hiking.
The drive to Split led back to Jablanica along a big dam-lake with stunning scenery. And then into the gorge of the river which feeds into the dam. I reached 1.250 m altitude later. And anywhere up there was another lake which had a very curvy shore line, islands and villages around. Even in dull weather, it was a feast for the eyes. Up there I put 100.000 km on the clock of my motorhome and took the pics and video. Filled up diesel short of the border back to Kroatia and had a very quick passing. Just the customs lady, who spoke with accent free English (maybe her husband is an expat somewhere around), asked whether I carry food with me. Tricky for a motorhome driver. She settled with my promise that the amount of cheese I have, is REALLY SMALL 🙂
Recording the 100.000 km odometer was hard work on a small and winding road.Stopped nearby to catch the curvy shoreline
Towards the end of a stage I usually switch the navigation to Google because faithful Garmin has very little camping sites on record. Google’s one do not always exist, but if, the guidance is perfect. Found a very professional setup near Split and work in the restaurant on my records.
Day 28 for the records. We left our apartment around 09:00 am and headed towards the airport. In Google Maps I located a bistro near a beach on the way. We found parking and walked 15 minutes to it. First guests, best service, had great omelette breakfast, great coffee.
Time to say good buy at the airport. Ingrid’s capacity for motorhome living was exhausted.
View back to Dubrovnik
I moved on north bound to Mostar. At a traffic light stopping behind a car I realized that my right headlight does not work. So I stopped high up on a hill at a side bay and started the procedure. User manual, tools, spare bulbs. Took me about 20 minutes, all done. Is a much better feeling to have your house in order.
First little hiccup
Simple border passing, arrived in Mostar around 15:30 pm. A bit tricky to find parking, payed the famous 5 Euros for 24 hours 2 km from the old bridge. Used it only for 2 hours, but so what. Walked over, found the Japanese Tourists en masse, took the same photos as them. The special ones are from down at the river up to the old bridge. All around but not too many are the usual stalls with souvenirs. I liked the copper works.
Then Google Maps disappointed me. The camping site was under development and on the other side of the river, no bridge, and suggested to walk the last stretch??? Drove to a fuel station, consolidated my position, decided to buy some snacks and drive on to Sarajevo. Can reach it in daylight. Which worked out just, not at least for the very good road condition. I trusted Maps again and also this time it was a challenge to hang in on the long uphill road above Sarajevo. A simple but clean set up made me feel at home immediately.
Day 27 for the records. Slow start into the day, bus to town again and a wonderful breakfast just outside town walls in the midst of the international crowd.
Morning view from apartment
From the city wall around
A row of churches
Phase II walk the city wall. Cost 27 Euros / person for about 2.000 m walk. 13,5 Eu/km. I was worth every Penny. Every meter the view changes from better to best, from beautiful to stunning, from impressive to insurmountable. One cannot stop trying the impossible, catching the moments on photographic images. We were so blessed to experience time standing still same as in Kotor the day before. What more can you ask?
The Team
in Dubrovnik
Private space
City Wall
Harbor
After the wall we walked to the small harbor and before the drizzle started sat in a fine restaurant for our next coffee. Later we found the same ice cream shop as yesterday, whose product was addictive. Just walking in the rain a little we reached the bus terminal and headed back home.
Later walked down the road to a Pizzeria for dinner and back up to our apartment block.
Day 26 for the records. We left the camping garden early towards Kotor and found parking a few hundred meters outside the city. On the way we crossed the fish, veg and fruit market. The small streets and squares were nearly empty and one could have had the impression of a lost city. Good coffee and cake nearby. Walking further and finding the path up to the castle. Unfortunately only I went up. Ingrid gave it a miss. With every meter upstairs the view changed and become overwhelmingly awesome to say the least. Reminds me that no photograph or video can transport the life impressions and emotions when you are there. Reality surpassed my imagination by far. When I reached the bottom again, the lost city was full with tourists from around the world.
In the morning form across the bay
In the morning before the run
Cafes for the run
Lovely souvenirs
Former harbor to the Habsburg fleet!
Here
they come!
From the castle
From the catalog
We left Kotor with the feeling time stood still for a while and avoided an endless queue of cars before Kotor and chose an alternative route from Garmin. We ended up in front of a ferry terminal and were not sure whether they would take our motor-home. From a distance the vessels looked rather small. Later a big truck with trailer stood alongside us. We payed 9 Euros for the transfer. That was reasonable. Just before leaving the ferry I opened the handbrake too early and rolled back into another car. It had a small but clear dent on the bonnet and we stopped at the harbor. One of the ferry coordinators came as mediator and asked for 50 Euros to settle the case. I agreed immediately, because of avoiding the claim, etc, etc. A bit hurtful after losing my bike.
Following Garmin and the advice of my wife Ingrid I did not go towards Ulcinj on the red road which would have been a bit more distance. The road we found was the yellow one and soon demanded all my driving skills and tons of patience. Narrow, pothole staccatos again and bend after bend, centimeters between oncoming traffic, etc, etc.
When we joined the red road coming from Ulcinj I nearly lost my temper and nearly threw out my toys. Nearly…
The next challenge was to find a reasonable hotel in Dubrovnik. In view of the primitive camping last night we agreed to upgrade ourselves. I stopped several times in heavy traffic and light drizzle and Ingrid inquired. After a couple of unsuitable places we checked the camping site. It was a very good one and cost 40 Euro / night. We decided to check a bit longer and could come back in case. Just around the corner then we found a small but fine apartment for 55 Euro / night and book 2 nights. All happy.
Later took the bus to old town, found restaurant for dinner, best ice cream in the world for dessert and had this leisurely stroll we looked forward to.
Day 25 for the records. Heading south again although next destination was north. Tirana is a large place and traffic increases with every km towards the center, naturally. Circled quite some time and bravely entered a small side passage. Parked and payed 5 Euro for two hours to the “manager” of the place. Police no problem…
Long queues for road maintenance
Parking “Manager”
After numerous circles in town
Started the exploration from there and found a wonderful restaurant with coffee terrasse attached to a Casino after 5 minutes. Again only the brave… Had to draw cash and exchange it. Drew 10 Euros from a machine, payed 5 Euro commission. No commission at the exchange. Payed the coffee with mixed feelings…
Walked further through the park to a church and later back to the car in a busy and even picturesque side street. With the remaining cash we bought some fruit and left after about 2 hours as negotiated.
Park restaurant
Top style
Ortodox
Lots of parks
Below is a fine coastal road which we enjoyed for some time. But later we decided a specific shorter route and were caught on a narrow pothole staccato path which was challenging and fun at the same time. NO chance to take pictures… 🙂
On route
to Kotor
At the entrance to Kotor I was so tired that I decided to turn left to the closer camping site against the recommendation of the Germans in Tirana. It was narrow road stopping every 500 m to pass oncoming traffic. But we found a great fish restaurant, but the camping site had only cold water. Not to the pleasure of my Ingrid.. 🙁
Day 24 for the records. During the night Ingrid woke me up, she heard a noise. I did not, but I climbed down the bunk bed and shouted “hey!”. No reaction, silence. I did not leave the vehicle. You never know. Could not sleep for some time. Felt a definite shaking of the motorhome about half an hour later. Thought must have been a wind gust. Did not hear any wind. Thought all will be well….
In the morning I had to look for the bicycle immediately after waking up. Bad news, it was gone. Looked to the rack and found the wire lock cut precisely but fixing straps were opened carefully and not damaged at all. Gentlemen thieves. Ingrid might have heard the cut, I must have disturbed them and they came back later to lift the bike off when I felt the swing. Went to reception, they were apologetic and pointed me to the next police station 12 km to the south. As we were heading north to Pristiana it was a short discussion, but we decided to report the incidence.
Nasty surprise, Mountain Bike stolen during the night.
We had to wait about 45 min until the administration started office but then were treated with Turkish coffee and a rather swift procedure. Back to pass Skopje with mixed feelings now towards Pristina in the Kosovo.
Pristina did not reveal its charming side…
Weather rainy and NO = ZERO chance to find parking near an old town. Tried hard settled for a few shots from the car, looked for a fuel station, had some coffee there before turning south.
WE had our camping guide and Google Maps agreeing to the position of our choice. But the approach road was more than adventurous. We had to ask and still had our doubts. But we made it.
Day 23 for the records.We had to go back northbound and pass Thessaloniki on the eastern side on the path to Skopje in Northern Macedonia. We had all kinds of road widths and surfaces, from pothole staccatos to top brandnew highways and had views to highways in construction, which were breathtaking because of there sheere size and the long bridges.
Mostly great highways for a reasonable toll
Found parking near the city center and started our excursion on foot. It is a town of monuments as you can see below. There was a strong earthquake in the recent past, so many of the historic buildings were restored or built new. So it was quite a mixed bag of architecture but had its own charme and friendly people all around.
City of Monuments
Orthodox
Modern
Arc de Triumphe
Stone Bridge
Stone Bridge
Parliament
Market Restaurants
Covered Market
Later we drove to a camping site on the fringe of Skopje which was attached to a big hotel and was located in a park with all amenities you would expect.
Day 22 for the records. After a very good breakfast we walked to the White Tower where the Hop-on / Hop-off buses would take off. We arrived early, they would only begin in 45 minutes. So we had a coffee nearby. At the payment point we were advised about some “specials”. The second bus would be full with a school class. And every hour the round trip would take longer and longer because of road maintenance in town. We said thank you, but thank you and started the tour on foot.
Soon we reached the Archeological Museum and bought the ticket and had another visit to the past. Next we found Agia Sophia, the first of two orthodox Churches. The second was also nearby. From there up the hill to the castle. Before we reached it, we had another coffee at a terrasse overlooking almost all of Thessaloniki.
Archaeological Museum with fine artifacts
Strolling around the city and up the hill to the top.
White Tower in the back
Agia Sophia
Agia Sophia
On the way back we found a great restaurant with healthy salads. Leisurely we reached the hotel, collected our bags and maneuvered the motorhome out of its trap in the parking. As the “manager” of the place, who was clearly a choleric, started to shout at me he got a mouthful from myself and restrained his anger.
We drove southwards to the first finger of Chalkidiki for a camping ground and found a decent one with a spot on the beachfront again. After a stroll at the beach and drinks in a nearby hotel we had dinner at home.
Day 21 for the records. As my trip around Eastern Europe would last more than a month, Ingrid planned to come to Thessaloniki and accompany me for about a week until Dubrovnik. On that Monday morning the weather was again rather dizzy and humid. I had breakfast at home and left the camping ground at 11:00 a.m. I arrived at Makedonia Airport Thessaloniki at 13:30 about when Ingrid’s flight left in Vienna and had my C+C in a coffee shop on a terrasse.
As next day was Ingrid’s birthday I booked a hotel in town. To find parking was a little effort and a short discussion with the runner of the place. A directed me into his last corner close to the fence. I accepted gladly. Alternatives were scarce. Cost me 15 Euro for 24 h.
The hotel was a good choice. We could walk to the Aristoteles Square and back easily and had quite a good dinner back close to our place.
Day 20 for the records. Early rise, walk to the little harbour, photo shoot. Change to swimming costume, make a short dive and be very relaxed and happy. Took more photos, found a dead squid on the small shore. Like the crab in Vana Veche it must have seized only a short while ago. It looked like sleeping. I tried to help it back into the water, but in vein. After the morning ritual I went back to the same Cafe for a little breakfast. As they had not croissants I had to settle with ham and cheese toast. I also took the salted chips. Do not know why.
I left with fond memories again and on today’s stretch I had many up and downs. Not emotionally but geographically. I must have conquered about 10 to 15 mountain passes. Ok, not higher than 300m altitude, but it sums up. On top of one of the higher ones ws a parking spot with a view over the Agaian See. Spoke to a pensioner couple from Nurnberg also driving with a motorhome. In total I had seen so few companions.
Beach pantomime in the morning. **
Sunday work
East beach
On day I come back
Peaceful and tranquil morning stroll
ooo
Some publishing, a lift for a local woman and a chat with a neighbor.
As my target I had chosen the middle of the 3 peninsulas of Chalkidiki. I thought I can circumvent this semi-Island but underestimated the road profile. In mid afternoon I stopped already on the eastern sid at the Armenistis Camping ground. Hidden away from the road I found my spot directly at the beach front across Athos, the Holy Mountain. The lady at reception was very friendly and helpful. She will travel to Scotland in September, when they close the business for the winter period.
Day 19 for the records. Early start at 07:15 a.m. with minimum traffic in my area of driving. Reached the same hanging bridge as I came in and felt the departure from Asia to Europe in a special way. Smooth sailing until the first stop at a Cafe attached to a fuel station. A fine gentlemen served me turkish coffee and I bought additional biscuits. As a gift he served me a cup of tea before I left.
I was hoping to have my next stop in the town of Alexandroupolis, but they had a festival using the beach road. Additionally all roads in town were blocked, I could not find alternative parking. Tough luck, I left. Unfortunately I had drastic coffee withdrawal symptoms but I did not stop at any of the fuel stations on the way, because they just did not look good. Saw the sign to a hotel, turned right and was then the only guest in their coffee shop with a charming turkish lady having grown up in Russia as my host.
Better weather
Recommendable Hotel
Snacks on route
Charming conversation
Carried on then to Kavala, a town I never heard of and was therefore not on my radar. But we adjust to circumstances quickly and I had no regrets. It did not open to me easily. I should have used a detour because of a road maintenance. The detour was very narrow and therefore unacceptable. After turning around and back to where I came from I saw on the right hand side lower down a romantic fishing boat harbor and some restaurants alongside. This was my spot. For the parking I had to turn around once more, but then all was good. Needless to say I found my Cafe with Wifi in walking distance. When I entered 4 young ladies looked at me as if I was George Clooney. At least I had the impression…
Day 18 for the records. As it rained a little in the morning I went to nearby Starbucks for C+C and had an interesting chat with the (male) waiter. When the rain subsided I took the bike and cycled to the ferry terminal. Took me about 45 min. I found a hidden spot behind a restaurant to lock it away and went through the same procedure as yesterday with the Istanbul card for the ferry, etc. Because of the uncertain weather I used the tram and went straight for the Archeological Museum and had a great time. And also with the tram to the foot of the hill where Galata Kasei, the dominating tower stands. Found a snack and coffee terrasse before the ascent and upgraded my energy levels.
Just parking
Misty morning on the ferry
Ancient
Relics
Techniques
Some 20 min queuing for the tower, but then the view above Istanbul was magical, of course. Had a coffee also after that visit, went down the hill, walked over the bridge, found the ferry, crossed the Bosporus the 5th time (of in total 6), found the bike and cycled back to the east to my motorhome.
Sultan’s Gardens
Up to Galata Tower
Galata Tower
Galata Bridge
Found the helpful hotel receptionist in her late shift, had a short chat and sat down in their coffee area and worked with their Wifi. Another day with tons of beautiful impressions came to a quiet finish.
Day 17 for the records. Back a short stretch on the same top highway towards Burgas but turning right soon to southeast towards Turkey. Actually passing a 3 country corner Bulgaria – Greece – Turkey.
First mosque after border
Crossing the Bosporus to Asia
Border procedures into Turkey cost me a Visa for 25 Euros which was obtained quickly. The reward was that the Diesel price was 20% less than in Bulgaria. I filled at the border. My original plan was to stop rather far outside Istanbul and travel to the city by train or bus. But I became brave and found a camping site on the eastern side of the Bosporus and drove there on the city highway. Crossing the Bosporus on this impressive hanging bridge was exciting. Not the least because I took pics and videos and was one hand driving…. Ups. The nasty surprise was that the Camping Site Google suggested did not exist. And you guess what followed. Very tricky maneuvers to get out of trouble of VERY busy and VERY narrow roads. Found parking lot nearby for 36 Lira per day = 5 Euro / day. Nearby hotel receptionist gave me all the advice and recommendations I needed to find my way around and changed my Euros to Lira without commission.
Took group taxi to the ferry terminal, asked a lady how the payment for the ferry works. She went to the kiosk with me and ordered an Istanbul card for me. It can be loaded with cash at machines all around the city and is used for public transport. It cost me 17 Lira, about 2,5 Euro and would pay for the ferry there and back and for the tram around the mosques.
Bosporus
Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
I could not believe the recommendations of the receptionist would work out so easily and I would be sight seeing in mid afternoon in the center of Istanbul. On the ferry I took the upper deck and enjoyed crossing the Bosporus again towards Europe and took the shots. I also spoke to young lady who came down from Edirne near Bulgaria, which I passed on the highway. Her English was limited. I also watched a group of what must have been Scandinavians. They were obviously touring Istanbul as well.
Spices
White Mosque
Hagia
Bosporus again on the way back
In the hotel I received also a map and I knew where I was, but not the individual buildings. So I followed the Scandinavians and also took the tram. Good choice, they knew their way around better and after 10 minutes we arrived at the Blue Mosque. Here I lost them and followed my guess and the crowds and found Hagia Sophia, the Obelisk, another mosque and finally the closing Grand Bazaar. At Hagia Sophia an beautiful young Russian lady asked me to take a photo of her. I did it with pleasure. On the way back I was very hungry and stopped at a bar style self service arrangement, because another lady who just left, sad in passing by “it is really good food”. As it also looked good in the display I did it and had great noodles, rice and yogurt salad. And all for 12 Lira, another 2, Euro. Back to the ferry and crossing back in charming twilight. To find the right group taxi took about 10 minutes and another young lady next to me helped me to tell the driver where I wanted to get off. It worked not so well, I was dropped 2 km before my destination. Good digestive walk “home” at 10 p.m. along the shores. No problem whatsoever.
Day 16 for the records. Soon after Burgas started a top highway to Plovdiv and I made the usual coffee break at ÖMV again. To find parking in Plovdiv was very hard work. Negotiating very narrow roads and circling around until suddenly a big lot was there near old town. Also very reasonable prices. Yes, I took the bike and started a pleasant tour around. Some steep stretches with ROUGH cobblestone surface were a little challenging. First I found the remains of a Roman Theatre above town. Stunning.
Long search for parking
Roman
Historic amphitheater
Landmark Minarette
Pardon me?
As I missed the Archeological Museum in Varna I visited the one in Plovdiv. No regrets, wonderful artefacts from centuries B.C. Old Town was not too big, took it easy back to the car and left for Bachkovo. In the next town of Asenovgrad Garmin lost me, sent me into narrow roads and I had to reset it to come on track again.
Brilliant
Exposures
The last 5 km lead through a narrow and picturesque gorge with wild waters alongside the road. Cobblestone surface the last 500 m through all the stalls with the usual tourist articles. Parking for 24 h cost me 6 Lewa, 3 Euro.
Entrance
Left
Right
Centre
Easter Symbols
Central Church
What a jewel of a monastery at the end of the world. Enjoyed every minute walking around and shooting the pics. Spoke to two French ladies from Paris, because the one had crutches and could not put the one foot to the ground.
Fountain at entrance road
Quiet Parking
As mine was the only car on the parking lot, I had a wonderful silent night.
Day 15 for the records. Left Nessebar rather early and stopped later at ÖMV fuel station for coffee and croissant. Spoke to young lady who sold tobacco heating systems which take out (thousands of) poisonous ingredients from cigarettes. Makes her boyfriend cough much less. She does not smoke. Cost 90 Lewa = 45 Euro. So cheap for good health…
Selling smiling healthier smoking
Drive towards Sozopol but pass it on the side to the Ropotamo National Park which I found in Marco Polo. It was a bit tricky with Garmin and Google to find the right entrance but once in it was one of the best ideas where to go. Drove on a very small and bumpy road into the forest only to find a closed barrier deep inside. To turn around was a peace of art and I stopped the motorhome just there. Took the mountain bike and started my excursion into the unknown. What an unexpected adventure and surprises all along my way.
Roma gathering
Small Ropotamo delta
Abundance
Not
So
Black
Sea
Later then to Sozopol. To find parking did not take too long, it was the harbor’s parking ground and was cheap again. Took the bike again and cycled around for about one hour and then first sat in a posh hotel with Wifi, later again in a Greek restaurant with a view to the sea and the other side of town. What a blessing in the sky. After my return to the parking spoke my neighbor motor home user, a young lady from Sofia who visited her father.
Day 13 for the records. I had a very early prayer walk along the beach and was blessed with a light show which could have been a present from God. Made me very humble and grateful for my eventful and safe journey so far. Crossed the border soon and found a man helping newcomers to by the road tax from a machine. Changed Lei to Lewa. Drove to Varna and stopped at the harbour first for coffee and cake. Found a great restaurant with a view. Drove up to town and found parking near the Archeological Museum which was as small miracle. Only to find the museum as all other public places of interest closed because of another public holiday. A little sad but I decided to make the best of it and still cycle around the city. Was not in vain.
Mystical morning at the beach of the Black Sea:
Poor chap, looked still fresh
No so fresh, but colorful
Next comes Varna.
First stop at Harbor restaurant Nemo, fine dining with a view.
Tricky parking
Archaeological Museum and Roman Bath closed. Such a pity..
Railway Station
Traditional dancing on a wide open square
Moved on to Nessebar which is on a peninsular connected only via a small dam.
Another spot with a view for about 4 Euro per night.
Day 13 for the records. The boat trip started at 07:00 a.m. and we were 5 people. My neighbours, a German couple from near Stuttgart and a Dutch couple. Short trip with the car to the landing and off we go. Chilly this morning, we all had jackets and hats, only the German guy forgot his hat and suffered in the cold wind when the boat sped.
It is needless to say, that in this case as in so many others, reality exceeded imagination by miles and miles. The Delta is so vast, sometimes with secretive narrow channels, sometimes with wide lakes, with glass clear water, with an enormous complex vegetation and a birdlife reminding of the time of creation.
The photos shown are painful selection of so many other.
After the boat trip we returned to the camping ground and I left soon to the south towards the border to Bulgaria and had Mamaia in mind for the first stop.
Watching
The beach
Lovely
Market
Later found a beach in Vana Veche, last village before the border. Was a bit too optimistic what a motor-home can do in the sand.
Day 12 for the records. Had a short night because went to bed late after posting and working in the nearby Cocktail Bar. And because the early morning party freaks leaving that Bar woke me up at about 04h30. Went for a stroll about 6 a.m. and found a peaceful harbour promenade with a picturesque sun rise.
Parking
Sunrise
Early woken up by party finishers, motor-home was shaken a couple of times, ups. But rewarded with a first class sunrise.
Morning has broken
After that relaxed stroll I headed for Murighol further into the Delta. It took about 40 km on a country road. As there was no boat trip from the camp site anymore today, I cycled towards the harbor but could not find any organizers. So I explored the neighboring fields and channels and found my first pelicans!
