Day 33 for the records. The new plan was to drive to Postojna in Slovenia, visit the caves which I had missed in Paklenica and then carry on to Grado in Italy and the next day to the “3 Zinnen” before returning to Haag.
Coastal road Croatia
Phase I was rather comfortable to drive up to Slovenia, pay the minimum road tax of 15 Euros and visit the Postojna Caves. Only the parking cost of 10 Euro was a bit disappointing. Paid then 25,80 Euro for the caves with German speaking guide. They take you on a small train about 10 minutes into the cave and then walk you for about one hour and back with the train. Needless to say the site enjoys UNESCO world heritage status and they deserve it to the full extent. Infinite numbers of shapes and forms and still similar in so many ways. As usual in sits like this, e.g. the Antelope Canyon in the US, there is not much time to take great photos. You have to be quick and creative to find the best angle… Then the next group is catching up with yours.
Entrance to Postojna Caves
Miracles
inside
the caves
Sellable
wonders outside
Back outside was a thunderstorm which reduced my desire to go back to the coast to Italy. I checked distance and arrival time to return to Haag today. All acceptable. Off we go. Went via Ljubljana, Villach and the Tauernautobahn via Salzburg to the Westautobahn direction east. All top highways and smooth sailing when you manage to stay concentrated all the time an top every two hours.
I reached Haag at about 20:30 and realized only at arrival that I drove more than 600 km that day. I surprised Ingrid and we had a good laugh.
Day 32 for the records. You cannot imagine what an eventful day this one would become. I was up early at the camp side and had an extended morning prayer. That is a great start into the day. Found my destination only in Google Maps, not in Garmin, it was the waterfalls of the river Una being the border between Croatia and Bosnia Herzegovina. From the coast to the back country you always must conquer some mountain passes which always need attention and always are picturesque. I think I reached over 1.000 m altitude once more.
Camping near NP Paklenica
Peaceful morning
Google Maps mentioned that partly there would be terrible road conditions towards the Una river. They did not overstate. But if you know beforehand it is half as bad. Recorded a short video clip and had actually good fun. My expectations were that at the river would be quite some tourism structure and busyness. The closer I came the narrower the road became. Just to change into a sand one and later to forest pathway. The road clearance was only as wide as to allow me to turn around if necessary. When the road led downhill and had sharp bends I became a little nervous but carried on. It was now too late for any U-turn. Suddenly I saw a sign board with a display of the waterfalls. I did not think anything would come my way. A few meters later I was near the river and found a small parking area of about 100 m2. At this spot was no tourism structure or anything similar. Remember traveling means to compare our imagination with reality. What a day.
NP Una Falls
I parked my friend pointing towards the way back, took my camera and all important documents into the back bag an started to walk along the foot path, crossed thorough the railway tunnel and only then saw the river. From here it was a beautifully maintained garden like area very pleasant for the eye. Just nobody around. I recognized a CCTV surveillance system installed and carried on. It was now obvious that I was upstream of the waterfalls and my excitement grew slowly the closer I came to the edge.
Already at this point in time I observed a much better infrastructure on the other side of the river in Bosnia Herzegovina. They had various wooden foot bridges and paths along the river and the falls for a surely much better view. And later when I carried on to the town of Bihac it became clear it was only a matter of crossing the border and drive max. 20 km upstream. Maybe Google Maps could suggest this as an alternative route in the future. It kept me on the Croatian side.
Needless to say that words cannot describe the beauty of the falls. There are two main cascades and one coming from the side across splitting into many little streams and falls. A view for the gods producing a lot of endorphins in my body and soul. Actually there was a small hut like house exactly at the edge of the falls. Nobody to be seen still. I climbed the path upwards to catch photos from all possible angels including to walk a short distance on the rail tracks. Soon I headed back to the motor home.
Surprise visit
I was about to start the engine when two police cars rushed down from the forest road stopping next to me. Ups, funny feeling but I remained quite calm. One of the second car first spoke to one from the first car and then came over to me. I had my passport and car and insurance papers already in my hand and got out of the car. What do you do here? Visiting the falls and taking pictures. Aha. Do you mind that I check your car? Not at all, please come in. OK. Do you know why we check you? No. Because of all the refugee movements. Ah, all clear. Did you like what you saw? Yes, VERY MUCH. Smile. Save journey. Thank you. The drive back up the forest road needed lots of attention, but less than the situation with the police.
Garmin led me to the nearby border posts and it was a smooth process again. Just on the Bosnian side I nearly fainted. Approaching the passage on the right side of the small building I hear a nasty scratching noise above my head. And I saw to customs officials looking up quite concerned. Immediately I imagined my upper side wall to be pierced or punctured or fractured and was short of a heart attack. I reversed away from the building with the two officials not looking less concerned. Then I went out to check. First I handed over my passport and looked at the gutter and found three brackets moved and the front closing plate broken with a big gap. Then looked at my car. Nothing to see. Hmm. I started apologizing and said I will have to pay for this. What followed was so funny that I lough my head off still today. The two had some conversion in their language. Then the one said: Camper OK. The other one came with a long broom stick and fiddled at the gutter which did not move. I said again, hmm, it is a big problem. The first one said, big problem? No problem and handed the passport back to me. I said again, I am very sorry. The second one answered, we are happy, that you are sorry. And all the three of us laughed heartily. What do you say? Can you imagine the worst case scenario?
Bihac was only a few kilometers away and I found a small parking lot near the main bridge over the river Una. To fit the motor home into the space was a peace of art with a little help from my friends (a student passing by). Had the coins for the meter and opted for a snack at the terrasse restaurant across the small street.
Relaxed bihac
I realized soon that Bihac was only interesting in the vicinity of the bridge. Walking around lasted about 25 minutes and it was mid afternoon. Thought to look for the camping ground and relax for the rest of the day. Then I found out that relaxing I can do when I am old and decided to move back to the Croatian coast. I had not appetite yet to drive north west towards Austria.
Of course it is repetitive to write about driving back another two passes with stunning views before reaching the coast. Just at the first roundabout was the sign to the camping ground in Zengg. Moved into the passage, stopped because it seemed very narrow ahead. A couple in the distance waved that I can make it. They were from Australia and had hired a camper in Munich. They also were not excited about the many Germans in the camping ground. I found my spot in the second row back to the wall. In the first row at the sea side was such a bright reflection from the sinking sun that it was more disturbing than romantic.
Day 31 for the records. Short fruit and yoghurt breakfast at home and off to Trogir for a morning excursion. Parking well organized again. What can I say? Another romantic and charming small old town area with the morning preparations of the shop and restaurant owners. Choose a restaurant at the church square for the second breakfast and watched the Japanese tourists photographing their wifes and friends. Sometimes this is just a pleasure (see below). Set navigation to Paklenica National Park near Zadar and Starigrad. First stretch long uphill country road then the top highway A1. I cannot describe it differently than smooth sailing with cruise control.
Trogir in cloudy conditions
Better weather
Better mood
As the road to the park became rather narrow I asked a couple in a restaurant garden. They were from Austria from the province of Steiermark. Later I met a dozen of them. They drove a motorhome as well and gave green light for the narrow road ahead. Reached the gate, went for the ticket only to learn that my main motivation to come was closed since half an hour, the famous “water dripping” caves. A little disappointed I asked for a hike achievable in the afternoon. A very charming lady guide gave me good advice and sent me off on a trail. Had to park 2 km inside and was a little proud of myself how quick and efficient I was prepared for the adventure.
Friendly welcome
Last spot
Just at the very beginning of the trail were a dozen of Steiermark boys and girls busy at the “climbing garden”. Had a short chat with some, took the pics and headed off into the gorge. Buy the way, the rock walls were nothing short of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, just not that high and wide.
Charming
Climbers
I went next to a wild water river and the gorge remained very narrow only widening later. Many more people came downwards, I overtook only a few upwards. The countryside stayed impressive all the way up. As a little “proof” of it, many scenes of the Winnetou films were shot here. Needless to say that at a fork I choose the opposite side from which I should have following the lady’s recommendation. So instead of about 450 m altitude I reached 620 m. A narrow margin anyway. Up there I met Adi and Robert who were part of the party of Steiermarkers, but of my age. Great company on the way down, great conversation and good fun.
Impressive
Scenery
Later I found the camping ground and a stand 20 m from the shore with a sunset from the fairytales. My stand neighbour without asking helped me to roll the vehicle onto the levelling blocks at the rear axle. He measured the water temperature at 14 dgr because of cold mountain streams coming in. I tested the waters, and he was right… Long chat to the owner of a Land Rover Defender. They can tell stunning stories. Sunset dinner.
Day 30 for the records. One month on the move. As I had a bad night I again started slow in the day. Decided to drive to the center of Split to look at Diocletian’s Palace and the surroundings in the city. After that my target was Solin where there are also Roman excavations and from early Christianity. For the late afternoon I selected Trogir, a smaller city on the shore, just nearby. I needed a slow day. It worked out all well.
Day 29 for the records. Took it easy after the late arrival yesterday and the shorter night. Used the Wifi to catch up some recording and left for town about 11:00 am. After one larger circle found parking near old town for 5 Mark / hour = 2,5 Euro. Paid then 7,5 Mark. Walked to the Bazaar and passed a chess game in the park and the usual pedestrian zone scenery. Asked for direction to “The Bridge” (another one if you check yesterday). But the Latin Bridge in Sarajevo is hiding tons of tragedy. On or around it Crown Prince Franz Ferdinand and his wife were assassinated in 1914. The resulting events are all too well known.
A little rustic
and high above town
Morning view from Camping Ground high above town
Active chess
on church square
Relaxed market
City Hall
Assassination Bridge
I enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere of the inner city very much, took my time to stroll around and found (again) a posh coffee restaurant with excellent Wifi and did some work. I re-visited some alternative sites for the way back home and made some changes to the routing (again). Instead of country roads in Bosnien Herzegowina to Bihac I voted to do country roads, but back to the coast first, to Split. Then to National Park Paklenica and after that to National Park Una. Only then to Bihac, Zagreb, Graz and Haag.
Paklenica is supposed to host magic caves an Una waterfalls and gorges. As I had to pass the National Park in Rumania I thought I can catch up with some hiking.
The drive to Split led back to Jablanica along a big dam-lake with stunning scenery. And then into the gorge of the river which feeds into the dam. I reached 1.250 m altitude later. And anywhere up there was another lake which had a very curvy shore line, islands and villages around. Even in dull weather, it was a feast for the eyes. Up there I put 100.000 km on the clock of my motorhome and took the pics and video. Filled up diesel short of the border back to Kroatia and had a very quick passing. Just the customs lady, who spoke with accent free English (maybe her husband is an expat somewhere around), asked whether I carry food with me. Tricky for a motorhome driver. She settled with my promise that the amount of cheese I have, is REALLY SMALL 🙂
Recording the 100.000 km odometer was hard work on a small and winding road.Stopped nearby to catch the curvy shoreline
Towards the end of a stage I usually switch the navigation to Google because faithful Garmin has very little camping sites on record. Google’s one do not always exist, but if, the guidance is perfect. Found a very professional setup near Split and work in the restaurant on my records.
Day 28 for the records. We left our apartment around 09:00 am and headed towards the airport. In Google Maps I located a bistro near a beach on the way. We found parking and walked 15 minutes to it. First guests, best service, had great omelette breakfast, great coffee.
Time to say good buy at the airport. Ingrid’s capacity for motorhome living was exhausted.
View back to Dubrovnik
I moved on north bound to Mostar. At a traffic light stopping behind a car I realized that my right headlight does not work. So I stopped high up on a hill at a side bay and started the procedure. User manual, tools, spare bulbs. Took me about 20 minutes, all done. Is a much better feeling to have your house in order.
First little hiccup
Simple border passing, arrived in Mostar around 15:30 pm. A bit tricky to find parking, payed the famous 5 Euros for 24 hours 2 km from the old bridge. Used it only for 2 hours, but so what. Walked over, found the Japanese Tourists en masse, took the same photos as them. The special ones are from down at the river up to the old bridge. All around but not too many are the usual stalls with souvenirs. I liked the copper works.
Then Google Maps disappointed me. The camping site was under development and on the other side of the river, no bridge, and suggested to walk the last stretch??? Drove to a fuel station, consolidated my position, decided to buy some snacks and drive on to Sarajevo. Can reach it in daylight. Which worked out just, not at least for the very good road condition. I trusted Maps again and also this time it was a challenge to hang in on the long uphill road above Sarajevo. A simple but clean set up made me feel at home immediately.
Day 27 for the records. Slow start into the day, bus to town again and a wonderful breakfast just outside town walls in the midst of the international crowd.
Morning view from apartment
From the city wall around
A row of churches
Phase II walk the city wall. Cost 27 Euros / person for about 2.000 m walk. 13,5 Eu/km. I was worth every Penny. Every meter the view changes from better to best, from beautiful to stunning, from impressive to insurmountable. One cannot stop trying the impossible, catching the moments on photographic images. We were so blessed to experience time standing still same as in Kotor the day before. What more can you ask?
The Team
in Dubrovnik
Private space
City Wall
Harbor
After the wall we walked to the small harbor and before the drizzle started sat in a fine restaurant for our next coffee. Later we found the same ice cream shop as yesterday, whose product was addictive. Just walking in the rain a little we reached the bus terminal and headed back home.
Later walked down the road to a Pizzeria for dinner and back up to our apartment block.
Day 26 for the records. We left the camping garden early towards Kotor and found parking a few hundred meters outside the city. On the way we crossed the fish, veg and fruit market. The small streets and squares were nearly empty and one could have had the impression of a lost city. Good coffee and cake nearby. Walking further and finding the path up to the castle. Unfortunately only I went up. Ingrid gave it a miss. With every meter upstairs the view changed and become overwhelmingly awesome to say the least. Reminds me that no photograph or video can transport the life impressions and emotions when you are there. Reality surpassed my imagination by far. When I reached the bottom again, the lost city was full with tourists from around the world.
In the morning form across the bay
In the morning before the run
Cafes for the run
Lovely souvenirs
Former harbor to the Habsburg fleet!
Here
they come!
From the castle
From the catalog
We left Kotor with the feeling time stood still for a while and avoided an endless queue of cars before Kotor and chose an alternative route from Garmin. We ended up in front of a ferry terminal and were not sure whether they would take our motor-home. From a distance the vessels looked rather small. Later a big truck with trailer stood alongside us. We payed 9 Euros for the transfer. That was reasonable. Just before leaving the ferry I opened the handbrake too early and rolled back into another car. It had a small but clear dent on the bonnet and we stopped at the harbor. One of the ferry coordinators came as mediator and asked for 50 Euros to settle the case. I agreed immediately, because of avoiding the claim, etc, etc. A bit hurtful after losing my bike.
Following Garmin and the advice of my wife Ingrid I did not go towards Ulcinj on the red road which would have been a bit more distance. The road we found was the yellow one and soon demanded all my driving skills and tons of patience. Narrow, pothole staccatos again and bend after bend, centimeters between oncoming traffic, etc, etc.
When we joined the red road coming from Ulcinj I nearly lost my temper and nearly threw out my toys. Nearly…
The next challenge was to find a reasonable hotel in Dubrovnik. In view of the primitive camping last night we agreed to upgrade ourselves. I stopped several times in heavy traffic and light drizzle and Ingrid inquired. After a couple of unsuitable places we checked the camping site. It was a very good one and cost 40 Euro / night. We decided to check a bit longer and could come back in case. Just around the corner then we found a small but fine apartment for 55 Euro / night and book 2 nights. All happy.
Later took the bus to old town, found restaurant for dinner, best ice cream in the world for dessert and had this leisurely stroll we looked forward to.
Day 25 for the records. Heading south again although next destination was north. Tirana is a large place and traffic increases with every km towards the center, naturally. Circled quite some time and bravely entered a small side passage. Parked and payed 5 Euro for two hours to the “manager” of the place. Police no problem…
Long queues for road maintenance
Parking “Manager”
After numerous circles in town
Started the exploration from there and found a wonderful restaurant with coffee terrasse attached to a Casino after 5 minutes. Again only the brave… Had to draw cash and exchange it. Drew 10 Euros from a machine, payed 5 Euro commission. No commission at the exchange. Payed the coffee with mixed feelings…
Walked further through the park to a church and later back to the car in a busy and even picturesque side street. With the remaining cash we bought some fruit and left after about 2 hours as negotiated.
Park restaurant
Top style
Ortodox
Lots of parks
Below is a fine coastal road which we enjoyed for some time. But later we decided a specific shorter route and were caught on a narrow pothole staccato path which was challenging and fun at the same time. NO chance to take pictures… 🙂
On route
to Kotor
At the entrance to Kotor I was so tired that I decided to turn left to the closer camping site against the recommendation of the Germans in Tirana. It was narrow road stopping every 500 m to pass oncoming traffic. But we found a great fish restaurant, but the camping site had only cold water. Not to the pleasure of my Ingrid.. 🙁
Day 24 for the records. During the night Ingrid woke me up, she heard a noise. I did not, but I climbed down the bunk bed and shouted “hey!”. No reaction, silence. I did not leave the vehicle. You never know. Could not sleep for some time. Felt a definite shaking of the motorhome about half an hour later. Thought must have been a wind gust. Did not hear any wind. Thought all will be well….
In the morning I had to look for the bicycle immediately after waking up. Bad news, it was gone. Looked to the rack and found the wire lock cut precisely but fixing straps were opened carefully and not damaged at all. Gentlemen thieves. Ingrid might have heard the cut, I must have disturbed them and they came back later to lift the bike off when I felt the swing. Went to reception, they were apologetic and pointed me to the next police station 12 km to the south. As we were heading north to Pristiana it was a short discussion, but we decided to report the incidence.
Nasty surprise, Mountain Bike stolen during the night.
We had to wait about 45 min until the administration started office but then were treated with Turkish coffee and a rather swift procedure. Back to pass Skopje with mixed feelings now towards Pristina in the Kosovo.
Pristina did not reveal its charming side…
Weather rainy and NO = ZERO chance to find parking near an old town. Tried hard settled for a few shots from the car, looked for a fuel station, had some coffee there before turning south.
WE had our camping guide and Google Maps agreeing to the position of our choice. But the approach road was more than adventurous. We had to ask and still had our doubts. But we made it.
Day 23 for the records.We had to go back northbound and pass Thessaloniki on the eastern side on the path to Skopje in Northern Macedonia. We had all kinds of road widths and surfaces, from pothole staccatos to top brandnew highways and had views to highways in construction, which were breathtaking because of there sheere size and the long bridges.
Mostly great highways for a reasonable toll
Found parking near the city center and started our excursion on foot. It is a town of monuments as you can see below. There was a strong earthquake in the recent past, so many of the historic buildings were restored or built new. So it was quite a mixed bag of architecture but had its own charme and friendly people all around.
City of Monuments
Orthodox
Modern
Arc de Triumphe
Stone Bridge
Stone Bridge
Parliament
Market Restaurants
Covered Market
Later we drove to a camping site on the fringe of Skopje which was attached to a big hotel and was located in a park with all amenities you would expect.
Day 22 for the records. After a very good breakfast we walked to the White Tower where the Hop-on / Hop-off buses would take off. We arrived early, they would only begin in 45 minutes. So we had a coffee nearby. At the payment point we were advised about some “specials”. The second bus would be full with a school class. And every hour the round trip would take longer and longer because of road maintenance in town. We said thank you, but thank you and started the tour on foot.
Soon we reached the Archeological Museum and bought the ticket and had another visit to the past. Next we found Agia Sophia, the first of two orthodox Churches. The second was also nearby. From there up the hill to the castle. Before we reached it, we had another coffee at a terrasse overlooking almost all of Thessaloniki.
Archaeological Museum with fine artifacts
Strolling around the city and up the hill to the top.
White Tower in the back
Agia Sophia
Agia Sophia
On the way back we found a great restaurant with healthy salads. Leisurely we reached the hotel, collected our bags and maneuvered the motorhome out of its trap in the parking. As the “manager” of the place, who was clearly a choleric, started to shout at me he got a mouthful from myself and restrained his anger.
We drove southwards to the first finger of Chalkidiki for a camping ground and found a decent one with a spot on the beachfront again. After a stroll at the beach and drinks in a nearby hotel we had dinner at home.
Day 21 for the records. As my trip around Eastern Europe would last more than a month, Ingrid planned to come to Thessaloniki and accompany me for about a week until Dubrovnik. On that Monday morning the weather was again rather dizzy and humid. I had breakfast at home and left the camping ground at 11:00 a.m. I arrived at Makedonia Airport Thessaloniki at 13:30 about when Ingrid’s flight left in Vienna and had my C+C in a coffee shop on a terrasse.
As next day was Ingrid’s birthday I booked a hotel in town. To find parking was a little effort and a short discussion with the runner of the place. A directed me into his last corner close to the fence. I accepted gladly. Alternatives were scarce. Cost me 15 Euro for 24 h.
The hotel was a good choice. We could walk to the Aristoteles Square and back easily and had quite a good dinner back close to our place.
Day 20 for the records. Early rise, walk to the little harbour, photo shoot. Change to swimming costume, make a short dive and be very relaxed and happy. Took more photos, found a dead squid on the small shore. Like the crab in Vana Veche it must have seized only a short while ago. It looked like sleeping. I tried to help it back into the water, but in vein. After the morning ritual I went back to the same Cafe for a little breakfast. As they had not croissants I had to settle with ham and cheese toast. I also took the salted chips. Do not know why.
I left with fond memories again and on today’s stretch I had many up and downs. Not emotionally but geographically. I must have conquered about 10 to 15 mountain passes. Ok, not higher than 300m altitude, but it sums up. On top of one of the higher ones ws a parking spot with a view over the Agaian See. Spoke to a pensioner couple from Nurnberg also driving with a motorhome. In total I had seen so few companions.
Beach pantomime in the morning. **
Sunday work
East beach
On day I come back
Peaceful and tranquil morning stroll
ooo
Some publishing, a lift for a local woman and a chat with a neighbor.
As my target I had chosen the middle of the 3 peninsulas of Chalkidiki. I thought I can circumvent this semi-Island but underestimated the road profile. In mid afternoon I stopped already on the eastern sid at the Armenistis Camping ground. Hidden away from the road I found my spot directly at the beach front across Athos, the Holy Mountain. The lady at reception was very friendly and helpful. She will travel to Scotland in September, when they close the business for the winter period.
Day 19 for the records. Early start at 07:15 a.m. with minimum traffic in my area of driving. Reached the same hanging bridge as I came in and felt the departure from Asia to Europe in a special way. Smooth sailing until the first stop at a Cafe attached to a fuel station. A fine gentlemen served me turkish coffee and I bought additional biscuits. As a gift he served me a cup of tea before I left.
I was hoping to have my next stop in the town of Alexandroupolis, but they had a festival using the beach road. Additionally all roads in town were blocked, I could not find alternative parking. Tough luck, I left. Unfortunately I had drastic coffee withdrawal symptoms but I did not stop at any of the fuel stations on the way, because they just did not look good. Saw the sign to a hotel, turned right and was then the only guest in their coffee shop with a charming turkish lady having grown up in Russia as my host.
Better weather
Recommendable Hotel
Snacks on route
Charming conversation
Carried on then to Kavala, a town I never heard of and was therefore not on my radar. But we adjust to circumstances quickly and I had no regrets. It did not open to me easily. I should have used a detour because of a road maintenance. The detour was very narrow and therefore unacceptable. After turning around and back to where I came from I saw on the right hand side lower down a romantic fishing boat harbor and some restaurants alongside. This was my spot. For the parking I had to turn around once more, but then all was good. Needless to say I found my Cafe with Wifi in walking distance. When I entered 4 young ladies looked at me as if I was George Clooney. At least I had the impression…
Day 18 for the records. As it rained a little in the morning I went to nearby Starbucks for C+C and had an interesting chat with the (male) waiter. When the rain subsided I took the bike and cycled to the ferry terminal. Took me about 45 min. I found a hidden spot behind a restaurant to lock it away and went through the same procedure as yesterday with the Istanbul card for the ferry, etc. Because of the uncertain weather I used the tram and went straight for the Archeological Museum and had a great time. And also with the tram to the foot of the hill where Galata Kasei, the dominating tower stands. Found a snack and coffee terrasse before the ascent and upgraded my energy levels.
Just parking
Misty morning on the ferry
Ancient
Relics
Techniques
Some 20 min queuing for the tower, but then the view above Istanbul was magical, of course. Had a coffee also after that visit, went down the hill, walked over the bridge, found the ferry, crossed the Bosporus the 5th time (of in total 6), found the bike and cycled back to the east to my motorhome.
Sultan’s Gardens
Up to Galata Tower
Galata Tower
Galata Bridge
Found the helpful hotel receptionist in her late shift, had a short chat and sat down in their coffee area and worked with their Wifi. Another day with tons of beautiful impressions came to a quiet finish.
Day 17 for the records. Back a short stretch on the same top highway towards Burgas but turning right soon to southeast towards Turkey. Actually passing a 3 country corner Bulgaria – Greece – Turkey.
First mosque after border
Crossing the Bosporus to Asia
Border procedures into Turkey cost me a Visa for 25 Euros which was obtained quickly. The reward was that the Diesel price was 20% less than in Bulgaria. I filled at the border. My original plan was to stop rather far outside Istanbul and travel to the city by train or bus. But I became brave and found a camping site on the eastern side of the Bosporus and drove there on the city highway. Crossing the Bosporus on this impressive hanging bridge was exciting. Not the least because I took pics and videos and was one hand driving…. Ups. The nasty surprise was that the Camping Site Google suggested did not exist. And you guess what followed. Very tricky maneuvers to get out of trouble of VERY busy and VERY narrow roads. Found parking lot nearby for 36 Lira per day = 5 Euro / day. Nearby hotel receptionist gave me all the advice and recommendations I needed to find my way around and changed my Euros to Lira without commission.
Took group taxi to the ferry terminal, asked a lady how the payment for the ferry works. She went to the kiosk with me and ordered an Istanbul card for me. It can be loaded with cash at machines all around the city and is used for public transport. It cost me 17 Lira, about 2,5 Euro and would pay for the ferry there and back and for the tram around the mosques.
Bosporus
Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
I could not believe the recommendations of the receptionist would work out so easily and I would be sight seeing in mid afternoon in the center of Istanbul. On the ferry I took the upper deck and enjoyed crossing the Bosporus again towards Europe and took the shots. I also spoke to young lady who came down from Edirne near Bulgaria, which I passed on the highway. Her English was limited. I also watched a group of what must have been Scandinavians. They were obviously touring Istanbul as well.
Spices
White Mosque
Hagia
Bosporus again on the way back
In the hotel I received also a map and I knew where I was, but not the individual buildings. So I followed the Scandinavians and also took the tram. Good choice, they knew their way around better and after 10 minutes we arrived at the Blue Mosque. Here I lost them and followed my guess and the crowds and found Hagia Sophia, the Obelisk, another mosque and finally the closing Grand Bazaar. At Hagia Sophia an beautiful young Russian lady asked me to take a photo of her. I did it with pleasure. On the way back I was very hungry and stopped at a bar style self service arrangement, because another lady who just left, sad in passing by “it is really good food”. As it also looked good in the display I did it and had great noodles, rice and yogurt salad. And all for 12 Lira, another 2, Euro. Back to the ferry and crossing back in charming twilight. To find the right group taxi took about 10 minutes and another young lady next to me helped me to tell the driver where I wanted to get off. It worked not so well, I was dropped 2 km before my destination. Good digestive walk “home” at 10 p.m. along the shores. No problem whatsoever.
Day 16 for the records. Soon after Burgas started a top highway to Plovdiv and I made the usual coffee break at ÖMV again. To find parking in Plovdiv was very hard work. Negotiating very narrow roads and circling around until suddenly a big lot was there near old town. Also very reasonable prices. Yes, I took the bike and started a pleasant tour around. Some steep stretches with ROUGH cobblestone surface were a little challenging. First I found the remains of a Roman Theatre above town. Stunning.
Long search for parking
Roman
Historic amphitheater
Landmark Minarette
Pardon me?
As I missed the Archeological Museum in Varna I visited the one in Plovdiv. No regrets, wonderful artefacts from centuries B.C. Old Town was not too big, took it easy back to the car and left for Bachkovo. In the next town of Asenovgrad Garmin lost me, sent me into narrow roads and I had to reset it to come on track again.
Brilliant
Exposures
The last 5 km lead through a narrow and picturesque gorge with wild waters alongside the road. Cobblestone surface the last 500 m through all the stalls with the usual tourist articles. Parking for 24 h cost me 6 Lewa, 3 Euro.
Entrance
Left
Right
Centre
Easter Symbols
Central Church
What a jewel of a monastery at the end of the world. Enjoyed every minute walking around and shooting the pics. Spoke to two French ladies from Paris, because the one had crutches and could not put the one foot to the ground.
Fountain at entrance road
Quiet Parking
As mine was the only car on the parking lot, I had a wonderful silent night.
Day 15 for the records. Left Nessebar rather early and stopped later at ÖMV fuel station for coffee and croissant. Spoke to young lady who sold tobacco heating systems which take out (thousands of) poisonous ingredients from cigarettes. Makes her boyfriend cough much less. She does not smoke. Cost 90 Lewa = 45 Euro. So cheap for good health…
Selling smiling healthier smoking
Drive towards Sozopol but pass it on the side to the Ropotamo National Park which I found in Marco Polo. It was a bit tricky with Garmin and Google to find the right entrance but once in it was one of the best ideas where to go. Drove on a very small and bumpy road into the forest only to find a closed barrier deep inside. To turn around was a peace of art and I stopped the motorhome just there. Took the mountain bike and started my excursion into the unknown. What an unexpected adventure and surprises all along my way.
Roma gathering
Small Ropotamo delta
Abundance
Not
So
Black
Sea
Later then to Sozopol. To find parking did not take too long, it was the harbor’s parking ground and was cheap again. Took the bike again and cycled around for about one hour and then first sat in a posh hotel with Wifi, later again in a Greek restaurant with a view to the sea and the other side of town. What a blessing in the sky. After my return to the parking spoke my neighbor motor home user, a young lady from Sofia who visited her father.
Day 13 for the records. I had a very early prayer walk along the beach and was blessed with a light show which could have been a present from God. Made me very humble and grateful for my eventful and safe journey so far. Crossed the border soon and found a man helping newcomers to by the road tax from a machine. Changed Lei to Lewa. Drove to Varna and stopped at the harbour first for coffee and cake. Found a great restaurant with a view. Drove up to town and found parking near the Archeological Museum which was as small miracle. Only to find the museum as all other public places of interest closed because of another public holiday. A little sad but I decided to make the best of it and still cycle around the city. Was not in vain.
Mystical morning at the beach of the Black Sea:
Poor chap, looked still fresh
No so fresh, but colorful
Next comes Varna.
First stop at Harbor restaurant Nemo, fine dining with a view.
Tricky parking
Archaeological Museum and Roman Bath closed. Such a pity..
Railway Station
Traditional dancing on a wide open square
Moved on to Nessebar which is on a peninsular connected only via a small dam.
Another spot with a view for about 4 Euro per night.
Day 13 for the records. The boat trip started at 07:00 a.m. and we were 5 people. My neighbours, a German couple from near Stuttgart and a Dutch couple. Short trip with the car to the landing and off we go. Chilly this morning, we all had jackets and hats, only the German guy forgot his hat and suffered in the cold wind when the boat sped.
It is needless to say, that in this case as in so many others, reality exceeded imagination by miles and miles. The Delta is so vast, sometimes with secretive narrow channels, sometimes with wide lakes, with glass clear water, with an enormous complex vegetation and a birdlife reminding of the time of creation.
The photos shown are painful selection of so many other.
After the boat trip we returned to the camping ground and I left soon to the south towards the border to Bulgaria and had Mamaia in mind for the first stop.
Watching
The beach
Lovely
Market
Later found a beach in Vana Veche, last village before the border. Was a bit too optimistic what a motor-home can do in the sand.
Day 12 for the records. Had a short night because went to bed late after posting and working in the nearby Cocktail Bar. And because the early morning party freaks leaving that Bar woke me up at about 04h30. Went for a stroll about 6 a.m. and found a peaceful harbour promenade with a picturesque sun rise.
Parking
Sunrise
Early woken up by party finishers, motor-home was shaken a couple of times, ups. But rewarded with a first class sunrise.
Morning has broken
After that relaxed stroll I headed for Murighol further into the Delta. It took about 40 km on a country road. As there was no boat trip from the camp site anymore today, I cycled towards the harbor but could not find any organizers. So I explored the neighboring fields and channels and found my first pelicans!
Day 11 for the records. Cosmin and Marco Polo warned me of the rather aggressive traffic in Bucharest. But my plans to reach the city center with the most points of interest evolved like this: Walk to the nearest stop of the hop on – hop off buses. But they start only after 10 am. Cycle to that. Hmmm Cycle to the main boulevard and see what happens. Great choice. Nothing special happened with the traffic and I cycled safely all morning.
City Palace
Arc de Triumph de la Bucharest
Well kept parks and gardens all around the city
Relics of the past
Bucharest was a busy place but much better organized than I had imagined. Plenty of impressive buildings and squares, restaurants and cafes, parks and churches. Time to move on and head for one of the main targets of the journey: The Delta of the mighty river Danube.
FIRST VIEW TO THE BEGINNING OF THE DELTA OF THE DANUBE
Renewable energy all around
Rainbow welcome
TULCEA is not a really posh place, but it is the gateway to the Delta of the Danube. Stayed here overnight.
Day 10 for the records. Breakfast at Cosmin’s parents and small talk as good as possible. His father guided me to a free parking ground and then drove me to the area where Cosmin wanted to meet me for coffee. Intense conversation about the world and God. About the truth and money. We found completely common ground, that Jesus is Lord and this makes even sense from a logical point of view.
Cosmin’s parents, so kind and hospitable.
Ramnicu Valcea
Left for Bucharest about lunch time and had the welcome tailwind. Found the planned Restaurant Parking area, but looked for a supermarket parking lot nearer to the city center. Google Maps guided me through increasing traffic safely to a Penny Market. Found a spot near a side wall, went for some little shopping, was not noted and stayed there all night (again).
Hide on the side
Open until 22:00
Not much more to say about this day, I left only at lunch time and after arrival went shopping, asked a young lady for a coffee with Wifi. She offered to guide me to it, it was literally around the corner. She did not have time to have a coffee, unfortunately. But I had time to organise photos, do some posting and enjoy myself.
I say quite a challenge how to sightsee in that busy place. But tomorrow will be another day.
Relaxed morning at Penny’s parking and at about 8:00 I left for the short stretch to Peles Castle. They should open at 09:15. Maybe I can walk around before that and even find a C+C somewhere nearby. Parking cost me 30 Lei / 7 Euros despite attempt to negotiate. It was really cold with 6 dgr C and humid. But the walk up from the parking to the castle was warming me up a bit and really a pleasant exercise. I found some stalls in preparation for the public holiday and a dominating restaurant across the even more dominating castle. I tried my luck and went in and found some seven ladies chatting around a large desk. Can I have a coffee, please? I caused some amusement, they all smiled at me and one jumped up and said, of course. Anything else? Yes, a croissant if you have. Of course….
Peles Castle in the morning from the road leading up to it.
Good mood
Good food
Picturesque yard
And picturesque gardens
Asked a lady, she tried hard…
He might be King Leopold I. Reminded my quite to Dr. Livingstone in Vic Falls. Is that strange?
*
As on the 1st of May they only opened the ticket shop at 10:15 and I heard a guide saying that the tour through the interior is only very short I gave it a miss. Strolled around a bit longer and back to the car.
The next target was now Curtea Arges. Took directions from Garmin which I had already checked the day before. Led to a long and winding very hilly road, but the alternative was about 1 1/2 hours longer. As the next fuel station was not at the corner of the turn off I had to turn around for one on the previous main road. Only then to seed that Garmin found now out that the main road is only 5 minutes longer. Filled diesel a bit later and had an ok passage.
Only rather rarely you see this traditional way of transport on the main roads.
Curtea Arges
Arriving mid afternoon a little tired I was re-energized by the beauty of the monastery, which hold some King’s thumb.
Inside Church
Inside Chapel
From Arges I drove to Ramnicu Valcea to meet Cosmin, a friend of Sara whom she met in Brazil and is still in touch with him. The route led across a hill with a road in an unspeakable bad condition. Not only potholes but sunken “basins” on the side demanded superior driving skills, which I possess, of course… 🙂
We met where he pointed me, he then guided me to his parent’s house where I was invited to stay over. But before they fed me like a king. As the Easter weekend was just over, there were leftovers just welcome for that occasion of an surprise visitor. Very grateful to meet some locals after all and to be able to ask about God and country.
Day 8 for the records. Smooth ride to Brasov, after a short search found parking near historic center. Light but stubborn rain. But there were meters which only took coins, no cards. Did not have any Lei yet. Asked in the hotel lobby. No currency exchange. Pointed me to up the road. Hoped not to get a ticket in the meantime, found ING DIBA Bank, but only ATM. So drew money in local currency, 200 Lei, cost me 45,2 Euro. Asked in the hotel lobby again, but even no till, no cash, no splitting of the 10 Lei note. Funny enough, the money collectors from the parking meters came just then and changed the note for me. As in Timisoara I walked slowly in the rain to town enjoying low level of actions all around.
Main square in light drizzle
Watch more lines..
No photos allowed in Black Church
Famous wall carpets
Black Church
The town hall is in the center of the square, quite unusual they say..
No day without coffee and croissant
Town Hall again
This where the battle for coins happened in the morning. Of course the rain had subsided when I finished my tour.
My aim was actually to go now to Sinaia for Peles Castle and then carry on to Curtea Arges for the Monastery with the King’s tombs. Other then I was caught in (Orthodox) Easter traffic and at some stage did 20 km in 2 hours. That just led me to Saina where I was welcomed with a hefty thunderstorm. Luckily I found a spot at a Penny parking lot and could relax and even have my home cooked supper. There was no thinking of visiting the castle that afternoon any more.
Later I had the desire to still find a coffee shop with Wifi to do some postings. For that I drove to town which was up about 50 m higher and crowded with Easter holidaymakers and their cars. At the end of the main road I turned right even further up in a steep and winding road. What do you do here Hartinger was a valid question! Only to find a negative one way street ending in a bend I just accessed. I turned around and parked there reversing into the space. A few steps further were the stairs leading back to the main road and across the road was the coffee shop with Wifi and excellent products and very friendly staff.
Just as I imagined.
When I finished my postings I returned back to the Penny ground and had a peaceful nights rest.
Day 7 for the records. Had a quiet night at the parking lot and did not bother for a breakfast at home but speculated with the usual a bit later. To start the cycling there is a procedure: unlock the wire lock, unlock the rack fasteners, lift down the bike, loosen the handlebar bolts, turn the handlebar 90 degrees, tighten the bolts, put lock and key into bar-bag, mount speedometer, mount head- and tail-light. In reverse when I come back. So it is a very important decision whether you go for the bike or go for a walk. Here in Hermannstadt I went for the bike, which was perfect. As most of the time I did not look into a map, followed my nose, the crowd and my instinct and found enough points of interest.
Main square with town hall which looks like a church, they say.
The “Lie-Bridge”. When a liar crosses over, the bridge will collapse, the legend says. Imagine….
Again I attended the service in the Orthodox Church for a short while enjoying the singing (from the others) and the relaxed spirit. Cannot remember being in Church so frequently. Why there are so well visited services is because it is the Orthodox Easter Weekend.
One of seven defense towers and the city wall on the right. The Siebenbürger came from Germany and knew how to organize life and protect their place.
Street back to the center
Although I had my relaxed coffee time I finished my excursion in about two hours. So I found it was time to move on. I had studied my Marco Polo in the morning and found a recommended “adventure tour” to the north towards Schässburg. I followed it step by step on this friendly sunny day.
The whole area is famous amongst other things for their fortified churches. This one is in Schechen. As typical for the Germans, int times of trouble these fortresses could shelter all the villagers including life stock. Climbed up a shortcut through the bushes.
Current
Churches
Medias
City wall
Birtan, surely the best kept fortress of all. What a presence. Another one, top right.
I reached Schässburg about 16h and hoped for a parking near the historic city. Turned to Penny parking lot and started on foot. 500 m later was the staircase to the hill.
Now in Schässburg (Sighisoara). View from the hill of the historic city.
Central Clock Tower
Center
The lovely main square with outside tables and chairs to dine and wine is posh.
Looking at all the stops and paces I had an unbelievable day of beauty. Needless to say I walked 10.000 steps plus, no bike after Hermannstadt at all. Remember the procedure. Another gift from the heavens was finally a camping ground in town. In the planning with Google Maps I found only one out of town in a hotel garden. This time Garmin made its point and directed me to Aquaris Hotel and Camping. Could even maintain my motorhome for water and sanitation.
Day 5 for the records. Early start about half past six. Easy going out of the city of Belgrade. Fill up the tank and get the daily cappuccino with croissant before the border to Romania. Border procedures relaxed, a very attractive lady on the Romanian side. She advised me that I can drive until Timisoara and only then by the road tax. So I did. The guy at the fuel station was kind. Instead of forcing me to by for 30 days, offered me 2X7 days. First surprise. Was more work and less income for him. Looking for parking there was quick. I asked at a another fuel station near the city center and they said I could even stay overnight. Second surprise. On the bike with pullover and wind breaker, it was chilly and windy.
Timisoara
Moving service
Another Orthodox Church with broadcasting the service to the outside via speakers. The priests and the choir sing alternating and that very beautiful and I for myself and some others were pulled towards the entrance. As I described from Belgrade, movements, coming and going was accepted throughout the mess.
By following my nose I found this elegant river parade with restaurants all along.
Some of the many flower arrangements along my short cycling tour around town.
In Chinatown in San Francisco they have their red balloons. Here in Timisoara they are more pragmatic, but not less colorful.
The big main square with other historic buildings and my fitness and transport aid mountain bike.
As Timisoara was not as large as I thought I decided to drive on to Hermannstadt, Sibiu in Romanian. The weather was cold and wet anyway and gusty winds as usual. But this time I had strong tailwind which was welcome for the mileage of my vehicle.
Tailwind
Cockpit
One can feel the tail wind, can’t one?
Here the small village of Sibiel. On arrival I forgot why I planned to visit that place. Walked around, enjoyed my time, found no hint. Left soon for Hermannstadt. After about 20 minutes I remembered: they host a famous collection of Ikonen. But they had closed when I arrived anyway. Getting old slowly… Parking in Hermannstadt (Sibiu). After a short circle around the center I found this public parking lot for 2 Lei/hour (= 0,25 E/hour) for max. 24 hours. In perfect walking distance to the historic city.
I must mention this. I cannot count any more the number of little prayers for little things like parking, a reasonable coffee shop with Wifi, a currency exchange and so on. It makes me very grateful that God is watching over me.
After posting from the Cafe a few more shots afterwards. The Dome of Holy Sava has escaped me until then. As it is probably the most visited place in Belgrade, it would have be a shame to miss it.
Way to Work
Dome of Holy Sava
Inside
Rather posh
Some of the nuns who visited held their hand in front of their mouth, surley in awe, but maybe also asking how much help for the poor could have been provided…
Stadium of OFK Belgrade
At the end of the day I had cycled some 38 km, 50 % of it quite up and down, but never steep. At the camping ground I quickly reparked my motorhome to a spot where the Wifi is strong enough to do some posting. What a smart move, one hour later the yard was full again.
Day 5 for the records. Took my bike and rode to town. Found another Castle and although riding at least one circle, found some or most of the places of interest. As so many big cities, also Belgrade has many faces. From posh to poor and neglected. I followed partly my offline map and partly my nose and had a great day so far.
As the rain caught me about 01h00 when I anyway looked for a coffee place, I was forced to stop at one near the merger of the river Sava with the Danube. And they have Wifi on top of it where I managed to catch with up some postings. My guardian angel seems to be a great tour guide as well…
Overview of the merging rivers Sava and Danube
Pouring down at river Save
Water World
Castle
National Assembly
The classic from southern side of river Soave
Orthodox Church
Service
The service was in full progress, actually the holy supper was celebrated and the bread and wine was offered, still the people moved around all the time also with visitors like me coming and going. It felt a very peaceful place to me. A source of strength.
Day 4 for the records. Looking at a large scale map yesterday I wondered whether I had chosen the most sensible route at all. To cut it short, I decided to change: instead of going to Timisoara in Romania I headed south to Novi Sad and Belgrade. The latter I had in mind on the way back from Skopje and turn off to the Madura Caves in Romania I had to sacrifice the caves, but the total distance was reduced by almost 1.000 km. Timisoara would come then on Sunday, 28.04.19 and not further changes until Thessaloniki.
Caste Novi Sad with my faithful companionA location of a life time
St. Peter’s Church
A dominating river Danube
Short break from the kitchen
Another travel companion
Spotless City Center
And all around
Street parking
Street parking. Asked another cyclist for the parking arrangements. There was a board with a mobile phone number. He said it is a Public Holiday, actually Easter Weekend for the Orthodox Church. The parking is free then. He also explained a short history of Novi Sad with Queen Maria Theresia awarding the town rights to them. Took me some circles in town until I found my way back.
Helping with directions
Late arrival
It was not the day of successful navigation at all. Near Belgrade I ended up in this rural area following my Garmin with correctly spelled address, but it was one of more of the same. This gentlemen, obviously a keen cyclist as myself, followed me because he guessed my misery. In his mother tongue Serbian he explained to me, I must go back to town. Cost me about 20 km over all and one hour.
Not the most romantic camping ground, but very well located and very friendly welcome and fellow travelers. Good end, all well…
Day 3 for the records. Took the map with the hop-on-hop-off bus tours which I received from the camping reception and it was very useful. I drafted a route from the outer skirts to the inner. Took my bike and went off and must say, it went very well.
Already yesterday Budapest exceeded my imagination by far, today would only confirm that.
Good morning in Bratislava, shopping and another round through town with the bike. Weather much better than yesterday. Found government’s palace at time for changing of the guards. Exactly two soldiers were commanded by one officer for the change.
What a difference the sun makes… also in Bratislava.
Government’s palace and “Changing of the Guards”.
Departure towards Budapest at about noon, again gusty south easterly winds, arrival about 16:00 at the camping site after heavy stop and go traffic in the city. After check-in on the bike again up to Fisherman’s Bastion with that great view over Budapest. On the way back quickly to the nearby Castle. Looking forward to tomorrow’s discovery ride.
First impressions from Budapest, palaces and bridges, two melted towns. ***
Fisherman’s Bastion ***
Houses of Parliament
St. Stephan’s Dome
The view of a life time from Fisherman’s Bastion
Inside the Castle
All posers
Haller Camping in the city center ideal for all excursions.
After a relaxed morning and breakfast with Ingrid I left at 08:00 a.m. as planned. Last additions to the equipment e.g., warm rain jacket and hat proved immensely valuable later the day. Quickly draw some cash in town and then join the highway direction east to Bratislava via Vienna. Strong and gusty south easterly winds called for maximum attention. Quick stop in Steinhäusl for coffee and croissant. Payed 10 € toll at the border and reached Bratislava around 11:30. Finding parking proved challenging as Garmin found only park garages. But after about one hour I found my spot quite hidden near a restaurant and near the big bridge. Take the bike and jacket and hut and ride to the castle and the historic city center. All in light drizzle. Only at about 15:00 rain became a little more.
Border to Slovakia
Parking after long search
First relaxed view of the Danube and the Castle *
At the Castle
Overview
Broader view
Just a dizzy look down from the Castle
Quaint yards and squares
Took the pictures, had another coffee and croissant (c+c) at Mackies and headed for my motor home. Asked the restaurant manager if I can stay over night. He directed me to a camping ground which Garmin did not know. On the way to it after 5 minutes I saw some other motor homes among other cars on a parking ground near the river Danube. One spot under a tree was left open for me. As outside temp is around 11 dgr. C, I activated my central heating. Had to switch to gas bottle 2. All in all you have to make the best of it.
The idea to visit the Delta of the Danube came watching a TV documentation called “Universe” about the area a couple of years ago. Similar to many dreams it took some time to make it happen. And once you travel that far, it makes sense to me not to come back the same way, that would be a sin, but find a circular path.
My route planning tries to accomplish that circle. Google Maps indicates for this about 5.900 km, but the sum of the detailed plan is about 7,100 km and about 37 days.
Summary:
I visited 14 countries in 33 days and traveled about 6.700 km. One of my favorite quotes is from Mark Twain: “We travel to compare our imagination to reality.” Realty surpassed my imagination regularly all the time and the beauty of countries, landscapes, cities and foremost of the people I met was just overwhelming. I always ask God to upgrade my support with 3 additional guardian angels (to have one on each side of me) and I am so grateful that the only incidence was a broken bulb in Croatia. And yes, a stolen Mountain Bike in Kosovo, which is bearable.
My Motor-home
FIAT DUCATO ROTEC
Alkoven bed
Cooking and dining
Trip plan:
DETAILS
I changed the plan on route because of new insights and just additional attractions. See in the report.
Planning Cost:
After some unfortunate experience in Russia I wanted to be in charge of ALL cost including fuel, telephone and data roaming. Worth my while.
