Camino del Norte

I did the Camino Francais in 2016. One of the towns one has to cross is Melide, about 2 days before Santiago de Compostella. Melide is also a junction where another Camino joins in: Camino del Norte. It leads along the Spanish North Coast and the few pilgrims I met in Melide all were enthusiastic about the beauty of that route. The seed was planted.

My daughter Sara came up from South Africa in August 2018 to join me for the first two weeks. All together it took about 33 days.

There are two versions of the “Norte“,
the “Classic”:

And the “Primitivo”:

One difference is the mountain profile towards the junction in Melide. The Primitivo has more to climb and is a little more challenging. This one we choose.

The table shows the stages we walked with some details.

Day 0, Friday, 17.08.2018,
Vienna – Berlin – Biarritz by air
– Hendaya by train
– IRUN on foot.

Day 1, Saturday, 18.08.2018
Irun – Hondarriba – San Sebastian, 33 km, 8,3 h

Day 2, Sunday, 19.08.2018
San Sebastian – Zarautz – Getaria, 25 km, 6,3 h

Day 3, Monday, 20.08.2018
Getaria – Zumaia – Deba, 20 km, 5 h

Day 4, Tuesday, 21.08.2018
Deba – Arnope – Markina Xemein, 25 km, 6,3 h

Day 5, Wednesday, 22.08.2018
Markina Xemein – Munitibar – Gernika, 25 km, 6,3 h

Day 6, Thursday, 23.08.2018
Gernika – Larrabetsu – Lezema, 20 km, 5 h

Day 7, Friday, 24.08.2018
Lezema – BILBAO, 18 km , 4,5 h

Day 8, Saturday, 25.08.2018
BILBAO – Pobena – Castro Urdiales, 36 km , 9 h

Day 9, Sunday, 26.08.2018
Castro Urdiales – Liendo – Laredo, 23 km , 5,8 h

Today a pleasant group of pilgrims formed itself as it happens often on a camino. It makes such an undertaking so special and creates fond memories. Walking on the beach was always a welcome cooling for the feet and we needed that, because shortly after that we had to climb quite a steep hill. The breathtaking views and foremost the accomplishment as a fine team was a great reward. The team spirit continued even to prepare dinner together and have lots of fun thereafter…

Day 10, Monday, 27.08.2018
Laredo – Noja – Guemes, 31 km , 7,8 h

Day 11, Tuesday, 28.08.2018
Guemes – Santander, 15 km , 3,8 h

I visited Santander by car after my first Camino. So I knew that a special place is waiting for us.

Day 12, Wednesday, 29.08.2018
Santander – Boo de Pielagos, 25 km , 6,3 h

Day 13, Thursday, 30.08.2018
Boo de Pielagos – Santillana del Mar, 24 km , 6,0 h

Day 14, Friday, 31.08.2018
Santillana del Mar – Cobreces, 12 km, 3,0 h

When I discovered that the route of this Camino leads to the “Caves of Altamira” I was very pleased. The cave paintings are about 40.000 years old and unbelievable beautiful. Science still wonders about the artistic and intellectual skills of the people of that time.

Day 15, Saturday, 01.09.2018
Cobreces – San Vincente, 26 km, 6,5 h

Famos “Capricho de Gaudi” in Comillas.

Picknick and sleeping spot across San Vincente…

Day 16, Sunday, 02.09.2018
San Vincente – Pendueles, 28 km, 7,0 h

Day 17, Monday, 03.09.2018
Pendueles – Villahormes, 27 km, 6,8 h

Day 18, Tuesday, 04.09.2018
Villahormes – La Isla, 33 km, 8,3 h

Day 19, Wednesday, 05.09.2018
La Isla – Sebrayo, 15 km, 3,8 h

Day 20, Thursday, 06.09.2018
Sebrayo – Pola de Siero, 33 km, 8,3 h

Now I met 2 couples who drove two motor homes from stage to stage and one drove back to collect the other vehicle… funny I thought…

Day 21, Friday, 07.09.2018
Pola de Siero – Oviedo, 17 km, 4,3 h

Day 22, Saturday, 08.09.2018
Oviedo – San Juan de Villapanda, 29 km, 7,3 h

Day 23, Sunday, 09.09.2018
San Juan de Villapanda – Bodenaya, 32 km, 8,0 h

This became one of the more confusing days of the Camino. I turned the wrong direction in the morning without asking for help and had to pay the price of lots of unnecessary meters uphill back to the path 🙂

Day 24, Monday, 10.09.2018
Bodenaya – Campiello, 25 km, 6,3 h

Day 25, Tuesday, 11.09.2018
Campiello – Hospitales – Berducedo, 28 km, 7,0 h

This stretch will be the “King’s stage” because with about 28 km distance and leading to an altitude of 1.144 m on “Hospitales” and Puerto de Palo with only a few sources of water it challenged my fitness.

This fish soup was unexpected in that mountain area, but one must not underestimate Spanish hospitality. It was a fine reward for a tough day.

Day 26, Wednesday, 12.09.2018
Berducedo – Grandas de Salime, 20 km, 5,0 h

Day 27, Thursday, 13.09.2018
Grandas de Salime – A Fonsgrada, 26 km, 6,5 h

Day 28, Friday, 14.09.2018
A Fonsgrada – Castroverde, 30 km, 7,0 h

Day 29, Saturday, 15.09.2018
Castroverde – Lugo, 22 km, 5,5 h

Day 30, Sunday, 16.09.2018
Lugo – Albergue A Nave de Ferreira, 27 km, 6,8 h

Day 31, Monday, 17.09.2018
Albergue A Nave de Ferreira – Melide – Ribadiso, 35 km, 8,8 h

Today I would come to Melide, where in 2016 the stories about the Camino del Norte were so promising. Now I am here again and can only confirm the “rumors”.

Day 32, Tuesday, 18.09.2018
Ribadiso – Arzua – Lavacolla, 28 km, 7,0 h

Day 33, Wednesday, 19.09.2018
Lavacolla – Santiago de Compostella, 12 km, 3,0 h

Day 34, Thursday, 20.09.2018
Santiago de Compostella – Palma di Mallorca – Vienna by air

Early in the morning I walked to the Bus Station and took a ride to the airport. All in all time was a bit tight, but I managed a coffee with croissant before departure. Smooth flight via Palma di Mallorca to Vienna. My son Gerald picked me up from the airport.