Langesund is not a small place but the center area is manageable. After the leisurely breakfast I took a stroll to “town” hoping for a coffee shop with internet to catch up with postings, etc. But I was not hopeful indeed. And as hope dies at last, I followed a man towards what looked like a store. Arriving there the shop had attached a wonderful cafe area and – internet access for free. Did lots of work…
Parking in the morning
What a star!
Rolling onto the ferry meant to say Good Buy from Norway. I had so many moments of peace and happiness, of awe for the beauty of their nature.
Arrival in Hirtshals after quite a shaky crossing.
The rest of the day led onto the superb Danish highways in strictly souther direction. Now it was time to look forward to warmer temperatures and different experiences.
I skipped the plan to stop in Alborg and carried on to a highway parking spot near Suldrup much further to the south.
The plan was to spend some time in Drammen and work on the Blog and the carry on to Langesund to await the ferry on Monday, 14.09.20, 14h30. It almost turned out that way.
From Drammen
Found Starbucks quickly and spent time on time-travel.net
But on the way to Langesund I got appetite for a last round of golf in Norway, found the club in Larvik, got a tee time within 20 minutes and a great couple, Knud and Cordula, to play with. What a piece of luck.
Which led to a rather late arrival in Langesund. And strangely enough a lady was sitting on some stairs of a closed cafe, followed me to the place where I wanted to park and advised me where the official (free) parking was around the corner. How friendly of her.
This morning I took the bike into a different direction and found of course new places of interest.
Royal Palace front
and rear.
Changing of the guards, just in time.
Royal
Gardens
Royal looks
From the way back along the river a rather creative zone.
Only when I moved the bike back onto the rack I realised that my air pump was missing and the smaller lock which was taken out of the small bag. Friendly enough they left me the spare tube 🙂
Around lunch time I took the motorhome to Sjoeylist Marina Camping. Also a rather plain site but with all facilities and safe.
Again onto the bike a exploring semi island of Bygdoy which has all sorts of Museums, forests and beaches.
Towards Oslo
Museums block
From the Maritime Museum of course
Greetings from Kon Tiki and Thor Heyerdahl
Most impressive number of turns in style.
The way back to the Marina led through woods and along beaches most relaxing. Started the routine to find a place for coffee and internet and was successful. When I left the young waitress asked a few questions regarding my travels and home page. Which was nice of her…
My Garmin navigation directed me on a side route to Oslo which showed a lovely agricultural countryside. It was leisurely peaceful ride. I just could not find a place for a coffee.
On arrival I found surprisingly quick a suitable parking area. Not for free here, 300 Kr ment 28 Euros for 24 h. It was very near a hotel and the city center. Took it. After a while organising myself to a ride to town I realised that I would not like to meet some of the characters passing through around me at night. So I parked neared to the hotel in the front and jumped on the bike.
City Hall
Harbor development
Rolling in.
The wind was chilly, the excitement limited, so I went back to my place. Again in the hotel lobby I had the usual cappuccino and worked on their internet. Could not be better.
This would become the day of waterfalls and bridges again. Whereby the stretch between Andalsnes and Lillehammer I drove on Wednesday, 26.08.20, about two weeks ago the first time.
From excellent engineers and brave workers.
Not for the faint hearted, eh?
From a creative mind.
From further up
coming down
leaving again.
Leaving its marks.
The view and emotions of that scene cannot be captured.
3rd time Dombas
Back in Lillehammer, same parking, same Cafe in the Park, same lady in the fountain radiating her beauty.
Between Kristiansund and Alesund is the rather famous Atlantic Road. Unfortunately I had rain and strong side winds to keep me busy on the steering wheel. I just had the smart phone attached to the windscreen and took a video.
Atlantic Road.
Not only on the Atlantic Road but all the way to Alesund I was in a storm with strong headwinds and side winds so that I needed 4 bar on my air suspension on the rear axle. Heavy rain showers made the pleasure perfect. Short dry spells in between.
In Alesund at last.
The picture showing myself in the blue jacket was taken by a young lady waiting for her friend. She advised me to go up the steps to the restaurant in the distance. I would have missed that probably.
When a young lady offers you to take a picture, do you disagree?
From the way up.
Alesund from the hill. Reminded me strongly to Reine. A german speaking gentlemen called it the most beautiful town in Norway.
So many ladies coming up suddenly, I could not resist to document this 🙂
From the way back to the motorhome.
Real
Mirror
When his he coming back?
On the way back to the motorhome (which parked in a very unromantic but free area), I found again a “Quality Hotel” from the same group as in Kristiansund. I went in for the cappuccino and worked on their internet for quite some time.
My parking in Trondheim was a little uphill, so the start with the bicycle was easy. Wait for the return… I found many spots where I were in 2017 on my way back from the North Kap. That is not difficult because the central area is not very large.
First thing in the morning was to thank that family again for their hospitality. There was not much further conversation because of quite a language barrier.
Drive back to the parking at Torghatten and get ready to move upwards again.
First view into
and through the hole.
View back from northern entrance.
North entrance
South entrance
Pattern on the walls
Roof top
View to the north
From the stroll on the northern side.
Leaving Torghatten on route to Trondheim.
The last picture was taken the next day only as it was late when I found the free parking spot in Trondheim – in cycling distance to town. Well spotted.
Free parking in Trondheim is a masterpiece of travelling
The plan was to drift along the coast in Helgeland. Last night I left that route because of the bad weather. This morning looked a bit friendlier and I found a way back to the coast. How tired I was last night can be seen by the fact that I did not take any picture from my parking location.
From Mo i Rana to Tjoetta
Wish you could feel the real view.
Between Tjoetta and Vevelstad
My relatives
Arrived at Torghatten
From the stroll around the mountain with the bike.
When I looked for parking overnight, I asked somebody and was invited to stay on their yard in front of the house. A family from Lithuania.
Time has come to say goodbye to the Lofoten. Reflecting that I almost gave up and pushed then up to here in two days I was very pleased and grateful that I had 8 smashing days.
Caught the ferry really at 07:00 a.m.!
From the transfer to Bodoe.
Into Bodoe
Out of Bodoe.
Heading south along the coast on the Fv 17 into Helgeland.
Stopped here and there for a break and some photos. Got the motorhome quite leaning.
Waiting for the ferry from Jetvik to Kilboghavn.
The waiting for the ferry and then the driving was strenuous and I changed my destination from Nesna to Mo i Rana and turned off in Maela.
It was already late and dark when I arrived in Mo i Rana, found quiet parking and called it a day.
Last evening I had a great chat to my Austrian countrymen Rene and Magdalena. Amongst others they recommended that I climb “Reinebringen”, a hill which overlooks Reine. It has almost only steps and is easy to manage.
It was a short way to walk to the entrance of the path. After the bridge I turned left into a rather small single walking trail. I did not get suspicious although the Austrians spoke about steps. I thought they will come shortly. To cut a long story short, I ended up in steep terrain where I could neither go forward nor backward. I called Rene and he saw me from the distance. He said, you are on the wrong mountain, you turned much too early. So I had to take my heart in my hands and pull myself together to get down again. It really cost me lots of blood, sweat and tears…
Almost in panic at the wrong place.
It went all well and I carried on the 20 minutes on the side of the road to reach the “steps”.
Almost
2.000 steps
I believe the pictures speak for themselves. As it was very windy and chilly up there in about 460 m, I went back down after some 30 minutes. The steps had an average height of about 30 cm. That requires careful descending.
From the descent.
Just mention that my muscle pain (from the lactic acid) lasted 4 (!) days. Not used to so many steps downhill.
Carried on to the very (south western) end of the Lofoten Islands, to A.
Most south western parking on the Lofoten in A.
Spent the evening in A in a well positioned and recommendable restaurant Rorbuer.
Rorbuer.
Just perfect.
One can see there was now sunset in A so I decided to drive still to Moskenes to queue in time for the ferry departing tomorrow at 07:00 a.m.
If you look at the distances I drove, you can see that some of the hotspots are really near to each other. The day will evolve in a most enjoyable manner (must have mentioned that before).
Morning at Skagsanden Beach
Already yesterday I met a German doctor who knew Norway, the Lofoten and actually Arctic and Antarctic very well and he recommended a few more “musts” on the Lofoten. So first thing in the morning led me to Fredvang Beach.
Fotos from the road to Fredvang.
Cemetery Fredvang.
Peaceful parking.
Another lengthy walk at Fredvang Beach.
Fredvang Beach.
Some might say they are repetitive. I cannot get enough of these baches and became addicted walking along them.
Feeding so elegantly playing with the small surfe.
Fredvang fishery, which I discovered myself 🙂
Next stop will be Lund, another recommendation from Mr. German doctor.
Lund
Mr. Blacksmith was a pleasure to talk to about his craft.
Has seen better times but still makes a good shot.
The day still had much more to offer. Heading for Reine.
I had to stop at that place for a snack with a view.
Images from Reine.
From the evening stroll.
In a distance northwards.
Free parking with neighbours from Vorarlberg in Austria.
When I look at it, quite an amazing eventful day, still without any stress, just relaxed roaming from sighting to sighting.
When I left in the morning after breakfast I was not only charged by the fruits and green tea, but also from the high amount of positive energy Haukland Beach provided freely.
I headed for Leknes but found no reason to stop and carried on to Nusfjord. What a romantic place for the tourist, probably still a village with hard working fisherman and innkeepers.
The parking was already elevated but I still climbed to the top of the hill. It was worth it.
Colors, forms, mirrors and the magic of the north made it another unforgettable “let time stand still” moment.
But the day was still long and I headed for Flakstad direction north again.
Picture quality poor, but I hope it still provides the tranquility.
Again nearby was a famous beach for surfers with a camping ground and informal parking. Choose the latter. But before I asked the camping manager whether I could dispose my grey water and chemical toilet and fill fresh water. No problem.
Skagsanden Beach
Another lovely evening stroll
My favorite details
Not without a mirror image…
It proved to have been the right decision in Lillehammer listening to the German lady and turn back up north.
The reason to come to Borg is actually only the Viking Museum. Google was just not quite up to date with the opening times. They changed from 11:00 a.m. to 12:00. So the relaxed morning became a bit longer.
The waiting was worth it. I should have taken a photo from the ticket lady. She was actually Mexican and spoke 7 languages, all latin ones and English and German. I was impressed, to say the least. And she was not unpleasant either.
The mansion of a king.
Nearby was one of their famous ships, just presented a bit neglected.
The church was modern and a place of good energy and peace.
Next recommendation was Haukland Beach. I was curious what I will find there and was increasingly impressed the longer the afternoon lasted.
To the east
To the west.
One of the legendary red houses at the right spot.
Uttakleiv Beach around the mountain.
Haukland Beach from the slope.
Before walking to the beach
In a tidal pond.
And a sunset for the mirror lover.
Remember? The end of the Dragon’s tail…
After the eventing walk I prepared my dinner and had a most peaceful night at Haukland.
I followed a recommendation from a web site with the top 11 “must visit location” on the Lofoten. Gimsoy was a little up north and looked to be remote. It was, and generally in the year of Covid 19 and late in the season, I was never in a crowd.
After arriving I went for a long walk along the beach, completely on my own and enjoying the light breeze and the typical smell of sea water.
And very relaxing is to look for beautiful mussels or at least for some patterns in the chaos.
When I returned I felt I had to do some exercise, took the bike and started to cycle along the road to west. It would lead around the island with about 50 – 60 km. It did not come to that distance.
But what came was a sheep resting on a rock.
As the conditions were rather unfavourable with gusty winds and light showers of rain the pleasure was limited. On top of it I saw a golf course on the way (Lofoten Links), enquired about the booking situation and decided to cut short the round around the island…
Hole 1, distance to bunker 180 m over the bay. Hit a 3 wood from the carpet to the target! Scored a bogie.
Hole 3, about 200 m over the bay. Shook me off my socks.
Hole 5, I believe, over 500 m long, do not ask for the score…
I enjoyed every minute on the 9 holes I played. Not knowing the details was costly in lost balls (although when I search for mine, I always find others). The strong side and head wind gusts added to the challenge. But what a scenery and excitement to be there at all.
The club rooms were only average but the shower after sports is always unbeatable.
There was no suitable spot for parking the motorhome overnight, so I decided to head for Borg. There was free parking near the Viking Museum.
The day has come to approach the “real” Lofoten. In 2017 I came until Svolvaer and this year I will dive further into the islands to the very end in A.
Side stepping from the main road to a small, small village and ferry docking station.
Loedingen is actually on the island of Hinnoya and does not belong to the Lofoten. Same for the island of Andoya where I headed first. Andenes would become the most northern point of my 2020 travelling season.
Morning walk on the nearby beach in Loedingen.
View from the beach.
Fotos from the way to Andenes.
Fotos Andenes, most northern town on Andoya.
Impressions from the way back to the south to Sortland.
If it was not for the Lofoten, it would have been a bit weird to return the same way I came down yesterday. At least until Dombas, then the E6 turned north instead of north west (to Andalsnes).
Not much to report, one has to stay awake and concentrated on such a transfer day.
It will be an interesting day again. I checked the weather forecast for the region up to the Lofoten and was sad to see no improvements. So I decided to call it a day for this time and head south back to Denmark and heading for France Atlantic coast. And I booked the ferry in 4 days.
Improved weather!
Dombas
Ringebu
Visited that lovely gallery nearby of the church of Ringebu. Two charming ladies tried to get my cards working on the terminals, without success. Just as I thought to have to leave, they said, go in for free, it is not your fault. The saving was about 5 Euros.
Fotos Lillehammer
On route to
Lillehammer
View from
above, from the
Bakken of the Olympics.
Visited a great coffee with a view to the fountain (Park Cafe’n / Storgata 26, 2609 Lillehammer), walked back to the vehicle and found the church and parked up at the bakken.
Only to be approached by a german lady who drove the same brand of motorhome like me, the FIAT Ducato Rotec. We looked at the details and found little differences, hers was just one year younger. And she had a garage in the back and therefore not my comfortable sitting arrangement.
And she convinced me during the conversation according to her Norwegian weather application, up in north the conditions will improve greatly. I am influenced so easily. I changed the booking of the ferry to 14.09.20 and headed back north.
Could not get Google to show route from Trollenstiegen to Andalsnes 🙂
The daily routine included a healthy breakfast with a banana, half an apple and one small orange or some other smaller fruit. Topped with granola and a fruit- or plain-yogurt. And always a cup of green tea with a squeezed lemon juice. So also in Geiranger. The planned distance to Andalsnes led via the Trollenstigen and was only 86 km. But I knew also high up some mountain passes. Still there was no hurry to depart.
Sitting on the dock of the bay
watching the ship roll in…
Last view back to Geiranger Fjord
First stop an Gudbrands Bru (bridge)
Many cataracts
Cutting through the rocks
Moving on uphill again.
Arrival Trollenstigen with grumpy weather. Still astonishing scenery. Astonishing road work engineering.
Great restaurant nearby. Had a coffee and snacks.
To outlook Trollenstigen
Trollenstigen view
Trollenstigen view
On Trollenstigen
It is only a short distance from Trollenstigen to Andalsnes. Found free parking near the harbor. There were three parked Hurtigruten vessels under refurbishment.
I cycled around town with the main aim to find a bicycle shop. I needed some chain oil urgently. The ride on the beach of Hirtshals left salty sand on the gears and chain. Luckily I found one. Peaceful night.
On Monday, 17.08.2020, I left with my motorhome for the north. The plan was to come back to the Lofoten after 2017 and to cycle with the tent and explore this part of the world in more detail.
The only preparation was to select some recommended routes through “beautiful” landscapes from the website of a travel agency for Norway.
Whereby one “must” destination was the Geiranger Fjord.
After one week in the Fjord area the persistent rainy weather motivated to change the plan for this time and head south again much sooner.
Only to find the weather improving on the way to Lillehammer. At the parking up near the “bakken” for the ski jumpers I met a German lady who by accident drove the same brand of motor-home like mine (FIAT Ducato ROTEC) and she voted strongly that I still give it shot. Her Norwegian weather application promises good conditions in the north for the forthcoming week.
I can be influenced so easily… -:) – But I never looked back and had a smashing time on the Lofoten…
Monday, 17.08.2020, Haag to Hamburg
Ready to go from Haag
Crossing into Germany
First signs of lower pressure.
Design +++
Sunset near
Hamburg
On that first day the the excitement to travel again was pushing me until close to Hamburg, some 985 km with few brakes. Stopped then at a highway parking area Rastanlage Harburger Berge West and it did not take long to fall asleep.
Tuesday, 18.08.2020, Hamburg – Aarhus
Fotos Hamburg
Elb Tunnel entrance
and inside
Parking near Altona
Near Altona Fish Market
Ferries all along
Parking vessels
Admin building with a difference.
Elb Philharmonic and guiding motive.
Fotos Kiel
Fotos Flensburg
Shopping at ALDI
Crossing into Denmark
The important rules in Denmark
Fotos Aarhus
Moving mirror
Excellent roads
Aarhus
Free parking
near enough to cycle to town
Wednesday, 19.08.2020, Aarhus – Hirtshals
Fotos
Leaving Aarhus
Go west
Klüvers Holstebro
Shrimp Salad
Fotos Thisted
On
route
to
Thisted
Fotos Aalesund
Mirror
Reality
Fotos Hirtshals in later afternoon. Waiting for the ferry next morning.
Monday, 24.08.2020, Oevre-Ardal – Geiranger, 195 km, 2.000 m plus altitude.
Proposed
ACTUAL
I had two options from the Navi and asked a couple which was on an early morning walk. They recommended the road over the mountains “Fardalvegen” as more beautiful. So I did. The very first ascent from Oevre was so steep so that I needed to use first gear in every hair pin bend. Unfortunately no hand free to take photos, only further up.
Quiet parking lot.
At the lake.
Fardalvegen
Vehicle and
Energy transfer
What goes up must go down
Turtagro Hotel
A long time up at 1.400 m
In memoriam
Nature creates forms
Right of way…
Wooden Church Lom
Fantastic location
Tight bends again
First view to Geiranger
Happy about first goal achieved
Typical church architecture
Camping at the Geiranger Fjord.
Summary until here:
My motorhome and I weathered the storms and were quite pleased to have arrived at Geiranger. Even in this dull weather it surpassed my imagination. As so many times before, changing a dream into reality is fantastic.
The following stages of the tour around Norway will be in a new post.
Summary of the day: Driving to town with motor-home because of distance and time. Then take the bike in town and find a charming, elegant and calm place. Finally heading westwards to Sweden through the typical Scandinavian landscape with waterfalls rivers, peaks and valleys.
Summary: For the risk of sounding repetitive, great roads, great landscapes, enjoyable driving. Arrived on time, found parking near old town and manage part one of bike tour around the city.
Summary: Chatted yesterday to the lady at the reception of the camp site and found out that there is a ferry from Lodingen to Bognes to short cut quite a distance via Bjerkvik. Still another demanding day after that with lots of road works and tunnel after tunnel. Most of them narrow and poorly lit. Great highlight to visit the Arctic Circle Center.
Camping in Korgen was informal next to the main school:
From the ferry:
From the road:
Arctic Circle Center
Afternoon and after driving entertainment in Korgen.
Summary: Short trip with again beautiful scenery as you would expect. Drove until I found a suitable camping site and then took the bike for further explorations. Reality exceeding my expectations.
Summary: Another day with the typical Norwegian Fjords and the winding roads along them. I was actually heading for Narvik when it stroke me to test the Lofoten Island Group. They are advertised in every cruise to the North Kapp. In Bjerkvik I turned right instead of straight and I was in. Never regret.
Summary: Despite the good road network I fell very tired about 1 hour before Tromsoe. Pulled over to a parking lot and took a long power nap. Worked very well. I did find an informal parking spot by luck, moved around with the bike in traditional fashion and enjoyed every minute there.
From the road:
Exploring Tromsoe:
Ishavskatedralen
Old friends
During cycling around the peninsula the weather cleared up just for my ride. Another day to be grateful.
Overnight parking in the background of a Motor-home dealership 🙂
As it was daylight all night through I could start exploring the area. I was on high adrenaline levels because of the achievement of 4.517 km in 12 days of driving and because of the gratefulness to be allowed to experience a dream coming true.
In the restaurant I met a lady from England in my age group 60+ who cycled up from Greece in two months. Respect, respect.
Meeting hall with restaurant.
00:00
00:01
00:02
00.02
00:03
Grateful for that weather with midnight sun, a 4.500 km trip without any incident but with uncountable places of interest, beautiful countries, capitals, cities, castles and museums.
Summary: Final approach to the summit! Again a lonesome ride but filled with great landscapes and scenery. Also rather tiring because of a topography of mountains and valleys and winding roads all the time. But the excitement increased km by km.
Departure and some stops:
Cyclists again
197 km
177 km
129 km
13 km
I missed to take pictures entering the final tunnel. It takes you plus/minus 280 m below sea level. I remember it to be a “funny” feeling.
Summary: If yesterday was a bit monotonous than today would be lonesome but still interesting. The reason for not being bored or even frustrated is manifold: everything is still new and with every km you come closer to your main destination, of which you dreamed about for quite some years: the North Kapp.
