We travel to compare our imagination with reality.
Motorhome trip to Norway Lofoten and Northwest France
This would be the last day of 43 days on the road. It will be 100% highway and still need lots of attention. I had to have 3 “pit-stops” to make it mentally. At the end of the day homecoming was sweet.
Approaching border to Austria.
Approaching Haag.
Do not come with empty hands 🙂
I left the small village of Molinet early as heavy rain woke me up anyway.
Quick breakfast.
Distance breaker in Mulhouse,still in France.
Coffee break at Starbucks before departure to Germany.
Long distance highway and “Bundesstrasse” driving.
I ended up on the same camping ground as in 2019 when I cycled from Haag to Lindau and around the lake. Fond memories…
I was lucky with my parking again. It was free until 09:00 a.m. I could drive to the free area in the attached sector. Then: Cycling to town.
What a stunning place at the Atlantic Ocean.
I asked in a coffee shop at the harbor for internet. A rather unfriendly male “no”. Next door was restaurant with two charming ladies, and I received a friendly “of course”, you are welcome…
I sat down and updated “time-travel.net” as well as Facebook. This time only “teasers” on FB with cross reference to my website.
Time has come to head east towards home. I found a fuel stations with reasonable prices near La Rochelle and all was set.
Snacks anywhere on route eastwards.
Tremendous weather movements.
Romantic villages.
Evening in the Auvergne.
Searching and finding quite and free parking near a church.
Long distance driving is a different ball game compared to sight seeing on the bike 🙂
Cycling in Nantes was easy and the distances manageable. I liked the calm atmosphere and the tidiness all around.
In town.
Les Machines de l’île
Around town.
On route to the south, towards La Rochelle.
First glimpse of La Rochelle.
Big mistake not to have downloaded the Google Map of the area. It cost me lot of time to find parking. Ups.
I must remind you, that I looked for parking late at night and tried my luck in that area. What a blessing to be safe.
I always was fascinated about Neolithic monuments. Stonehenge in the Salisbury Plains is pulling me again and again like a magnet. I felt quite some excitement again heading for Carnac.
It is difficult to say the least to describe the impression with a few pictures. There are 6 fields of stone rows over 4 km. There is a monument of a scale which can only be absorbed by walking it completely up and down. Which I did not, only two of them. There were always tombs involved, so the thoughts are it represents a message of the transition from life to the after life.
Near Carnac is a the a semi island and at the far end the village of Quiberon. Unfortunately the weather was playing games with me so the no of spectacular pictures was limited 🙂
Bad weather, good dining.
After a late lunch I headed for Nantes and found Camping de Nantes. A very recommendable location.
I was not so sure about Brest but I felt it should be visited once you travel in the Bretagne. It was a little plain, but also with some charm.
Main attraction is the dominating Castle.
Pointe du Raz is the most western cap of France. I was looking forward to it and was collecting lots of energy from it.
It was late afternoon but I was still fit and headed towards Carnac. I came until Loirant and found some quite parking with luck.
I left Lion-sur-Mer early and headed for Saint Malo, found good parking just a little outside town and activated my bicycle. I watched a big ship passing an narrow spot.
From inside St. Malo, slowly waking up.
Some other travelers recommended the village Erquy to me. But I did not have the motivation to search for the hidden gems which are definitely there.
For the search of the Granite Rose I started in Louannec. It was not was I was hoping for. But I had a great cycling round partially over rocky terrain at the beach.
In search for colors.
The couple which recommended Erquy to me also praised Tregastel. It was not on my radar. Here I found my Granite Rose. Of the finest.
With the change of light colors varied a lot.
I was looking for a beach to find fossils. According to the net there should be some in Houlgate and Lion-sur-Mer.
From Houlgate:
In the background are the black rocks where they found Dinosaurs and one could have found other smaller fossils. High tide, no way to reach.
Unfortunate timing 🙁
From Lion-sur-Mer
PATTERNS and FOSSILS!
Smart light fading slowly.
In the morning I was woken up at 06:00 a.m. from marketeers. What a shock, but they were actually kind and guided me out of the parking. After the empty fuel tank yesterday another straining exercise…
Found perfect parking near the library and did my morning routine in peace again. Jumped on the bike to explore the market and search for a building which I had missed yesterday.
Found Presbytère Saint Etienne
From the toll road to Etretat.
From Etretat Cliffs And Beach
From very charming Honfleur.
Waked up early, left early for Rouen.
My fuel gage betrayed me with drastic consequences 🙁
From Rouen.
From the way to Caen -> Lisieux:
Arrived in Caen on time and found parking near town again at the yacht harbor.
As one would expect by now, I started my sight seeing tour on the bike.
View from the castle on top.
Again my parking locations was close to old town. Asked for direction and only had to follow a tramway track.
Numerous canals in Gent.
I am so often catching weddings, which I really enjoy.
All around the “Korenmarkt“.
Continued to Lille in France and did not expect too much. What a pleasant surprise was waiting for me.
At my return to the parking I observed groups of people entering the Belfried von Lille. I was curious and followed. Should somebody ask for a ticket, “oh, I do not speak French (Je ne palpar française) 🙂
It was a free exhibition of local artists. So enjoyable.
Two of my top favorite artists.
After the exhibition.
I considered to stay overnight where I was. But at the end of the consideration I moved on and stopped at a quiet parking lot on route to Rouen.
The morning was sunny but very windy. So I opted to drive to Den Haag instead of cycling the 14 km. To find parking was another lengthy exercise but eventually successful.
Parking at the yacht harbor “Vissershaven” was not expensive and close to town.
The Royals stay private.
Great weather, great social life.
Tranquil flea market near Escher House.
I was looking forward to some famous Dutch painters in the museum of arts. But found only a handful. The rest was so depressing.
From the piers.
In the late afternoon only the question was again how far to go south west. This time i voted for Lille in France.
Due to quite some delays because of traffic congestions and one detour from my side I had to change to Gent which was one hour shorter. Ingrid has often mentioned its charme and beautiful building ensembles.
From my app “Stellplatz Radar” I found free parking near the Gent Rowing Club near the city center…
After the unpleasant happenings last night I was relaxed again and after the morning routine took the bike and cycled to town.
Found also the “Kulturspeicher” cycling along the river.
A rare version of a “Meerjungfrau”. (Check Kopenhagen!)
The most charming castle of “Evenburg” is a little outside, worthwhile the cycling.
I followed a recommendation of friends to visit Ditzum, which was indeed a romantic fishing village.
After some consideration how far to travel towards the west I decided for Den Haag, which I had in mind for a long time.
I stopped then some 15 km short on a camping ground in Leiden.
I started very early in the morning, the first trucks left before 5 a.m. and I followed about 05:30. New trick.
Arrived in Flensburg early, found an ALDI quickly and stored up my groceries. Followed more an intuition than lots of analysis and headed for Husum, which should be a charming fishing village south-east of Flensburg.
I am addicted to mirror images.
From the crossing over the Elbe near Glückstadt avoiding the Hamburg tunnel.
Langesund is not a small place but the center area is manageable. After the leisurely breakfast I took a stroll to “town” hoping for a coffee shop with internet to catch up with postings, etc. But I was not hopeful indeed. And as hope dies at last, I followed a man towards what looked like a store. Arriving there the shop had attached a wonderful cafe area and – internet access for free. Did lots of work…
Rolling onto the ferry meant to say Good Buy from Norway. I had so many moments of peace and happiness, of awe for the beauty of their nature.
Arrival in Hirtshals after quite a shaky crossing.
The rest of the day led onto the superb Danish highways in strictly souther direction. Now it was time to look forward to warmer temperatures and different experiences.
I skipped the plan to stop in Alborg and carried on to a highway parking spot near Suldrup much further to the south.
The plan was to spend some time in Drammen and work on the Blog and the carry on to Langesund to await the ferry on Monday, 14.09.20, 14h30. It almost turned out that way.
From Drammen
Found Starbucks quickly and spent time on time-travel.net
But on the way to Langesund I got appetite for a last round of golf in Norway, found the club in Larvik, got a tee time within 20 minutes and a great couple, Knud and Cordula, to play with. What a piece of luck.
Which led to a rather late arrival in Langesund. And strangely enough a lady was sitting on some stairs of a closed cafe, followed me to the place where I wanted to park and advised me where the official (free) parking was around the corner. How friendly of her.
This morning I took the bike into a different direction and found of course new places of interest.
From the way back along the river a rather creative zone.
Only when I moved the bike back onto the rack I realised that my air pump was missing and the smaller lock which was taken out of the small bag. Friendly enough they left me the spare tube 🙂
Around lunch time I took the motorhome to Sjoeylist Marina Camping. Also a rather plain site but with all facilities and safe.
Again onto the bike a exploring semi island of Bygdoy which has all sorts of Museums, forests and beaches.
From the Maritime Museum of course
Greetings from Kon Tiki and Thor Heyerdahl
The way back to the Marina led through woods and along beaches most relaxing. Started the routine to find a place for coffee and internet and was successful. When I left the young waitress asked a few questions regarding my travels and home page. Which was nice of her…
My Garmin navigation directed me on a side route to Oslo which showed a lovely agricultural countryside. It was leisurely peaceful ride. I just could not find a place for a coffee.
On arrival I found surprisingly quick a suitable parking area. Not for free here, 300 Kr ment 28 Euros for 24 h. It was very near a hotel and the city center. Took it. After a while organising myself to a ride to town I realised that I would not like to meet some of the characters passing through around me at night. So I parked neared to the hotel in the front and jumped on the bike.
The wind was chilly, the excitement limited, so I went back to my place. Again in the hotel lobby I had the usual cappuccino and worked on their internet. Could not be better.
This would become the day of waterfalls and bridges again. Whereby the stretch between Andalsnes and Lillehammer I drove on Wednesday, 26.08.20, about two weeks ago the first time.
From excellent engineers and brave workers.
Not for the faint hearted, eh?
From a creative mind.
Back in Lillehammer, same parking, same Cafe in the Park, same lady in the fountain radiating her beauty.
Between Kristiansund and Alesund is the rather famous Atlantic Road. Unfortunately I had rain and strong side winds to keep me busy on the steering wheel. I just had the smart phone attached to the windscreen and took a video.
Atlantic Road.
Not only on the Atlantic Road but all the way to Alesund I was in a storm with strong headwinds and side winds so that I needed 4 bar on my air suspension on the rear axle. Heavy rain showers made the pleasure perfect. Short dry spells in between.
In Alesund at last.
The picture showing myself in the blue jacket was taken by a young lady waiting for her friend. She advised me to go up the steps to the restaurant in the distance. I would have missed that probably.
Alesund from the hill. Reminded me strongly to Reine. A german speaking gentlemen called it the most beautiful town in Norway.
So many ladies coming up suddenly, I could not resist to document this 🙂
From the way back to the motorhome.
On the way back to the motorhome (which parked in a very unromantic but free area), I found again a “Quality Hotel” from the same group as in Kristiansund. I went in for the cappuccino and worked on their internet for quite some time.
My parking in Trondheim was a little uphill, so the start with the bicycle was easy. Wait for the return… I found many spots where I were in 2017 on my way back from the North Kap. That is not difficult because the central area is not very large.
From Trondheim to Kristiansund.
Parking Kristiansund near the yacht harbor.
From the stroll to town and back.
First thing in the morning was to thank that family again for their hospitality. There was not much further conversation because of quite a language barrier.
Drive back to the parking at Torghatten and get ready to move upwards again.
Pattern on the walls
View to the north
From the stroll on the northern side.
Leaving Torghatten on route to Trondheim.
The last picture was taken the next day only as it was late when I found the free parking spot in Trondheim – in cycling distance to town. Well spotted.
The plan was to drift along the coast in Helgeland. Last night I left that route because of the bad weather. This morning looked a bit friendlier and I found a way back to the coast. How tired I was last night can be seen by the fact that I did not take any picture from my parking location.
From Mo i Rana to Tjoetta
Between Tjoetta and Vevelstad
Arrived at Torghatten
From the stroll around the mountain with the bike.
When I looked for parking overnight, I asked somebody and was invited to stay on their yard in front of the house. A family from Lithuania.
Time has come to say goodbye to the Lofoten. Reflecting that I almost gave up and pushed then up to here in two days I was very pleased and grateful that I had 8 smashing days.
Caught the ferry really at 07:00 a.m.!
From the transfer to Bodoe.
Heading south along the coast on the Fv 17 into Helgeland.
Stopped here and there for a break and some photos. Got the motorhome quite leaning.
Waiting for the ferry from Jetvik to Kilboghavn.
The waiting for the ferry and then the driving was strenuous and I changed my destination from Nesna to Mo i Rana and turned off in Maela.
It was already late and dark when I arrived in Mo i Rana, found quiet parking and called it a day.
Last evening I had a great chat to my Austrian countrymen Rene and Magdalena. Amongst others they recommended that I climb “Reinebringen”, a hill which overlooks Reine. It has almost only steps and is easy to manage.
It was a short way to walk to the entrance of the path. After the bridge I turned left into a rather small single walking trail. I did not get suspicious although the Austrians spoke about steps. I thought they will come shortly.
To cut a long story short, I ended up in steep terrain where I could neither go forward nor backward. I called Rene and he saw me from the distance. He said, you are on the wrong mountain, you turned much too early. So I had to take my heart in my hands and pull myself together to get down again. It really cost me lots of blood, sweat and tears…
It went all well and I carried on the 20 minutes on the side of the road to reach the “steps”.
I believe the pictures speak for themselves. As it was very windy and chilly up there in about 460 m, I went back down after some 30 minutes. The steps had an average height of about 30 cm. That requires careful descending.
Just mention that my muscle pain (from the lactic acid) lasted 4 (!) days. Not used to so many steps downhill.
Carried on to the very (south western) end of the Lofoten Islands, to A.
Spent the evening in A in a well positioned and recommendable restaurant Rorbuer.
One can see there was now sunset in A so I decided to drive still to Moskenes to queue in time for the ferry departing tomorrow at 07:00 a.m.
If you look at the distances I drove, you can see that some of the hotspots are really near to each other. The day will evolve in a most enjoyable manner (must have mentioned that before).
Already yesterday I met a German doctor who knew Norway, the Lofoten and actually Arctic and Antarctic very well and he recommended a few more “musts” on the Lofoten. So first thing in the morning led me to Fredvang Beach.
Fotos from the road to Fredvang.
Cemetery Fredvang.
Another lengthy walk at Fredvang Beach.
Some might say they are repetitive. I cannot get enough of these baches and became addicted walking along them.
Fredvang fishery, which I discovered myself 🙂
Next stop will be Lund, another recommendation from Mr. German doctor.
Mr. Blacksmith was a pleasure to talk to about his craft.
The day still had much more to offer. Heading for Reine.
I had to stop at that place for a snack with a view.
Images from Reine.
In a distance northwards.
When I look at it, quite an amazing eventful day, still without any stress, just relaxed roaming from sighting to sighting.
When I left in the morning after breakfast I was not only charged by the fruits and green tea, but also from the high amount of positive energy Haukland Beach provided freely.
I headed for Leknes but found no reason to stop and carried on to Nusfjord. What a romantic place for the tourist, probably still a village with hard working fisherman and innkeepers.
The parking was already elevated but I still climbed to the top of the hill. It was worth it.
Colors, forms, mirrors and the magic of the north made it another unforgettable “let time stand still” moment.
But the day was still long and I headed for Flakstad direction north again.
Again nearby was a famous beach for surfers with a camping ground and informal parking. Choose the latter. But before I asked the camping manager whether I could dispose my grey water and chemical toilet and fill fresh water. No problem.
Skagsanden Beach
Another lovely evening stroll
My favorite details
It proved to have been the right decision in Lillehammer listening to the German lady and turn back up north.
The reason to come to Borg is actually only the Viking Museum. Google was just not quite up to date with the opening times. They changed from 11:00 a.m. to 12:00. So the relaxed morning became a bit longer.
The waiting was worth it. I should have taken a photo from the ticket lady. She was actually Mexican and spoke 7 languages, all latin ones and English and German. I was impressed, to say the least. And she was not unpleasant either.
Nearby was one of their famous ships, just presented a bit neglected.
The church was modern and a place of good energy and peace.
Next recommendation was Haukland Beach. I was curious what I will find there and was increasingly impressed the longer the afternoon lasted.
And a sunset for the mirror lover.
After the eventing walk I prepared my dinner and had a most peaceful night at Haukland.
I followed a recommendation from a web site with the top 11 “must visit location” on the Lofoten. Gimsoy was a little up north and looked to be remote. It was, and generally in the year of Covid 19 and late in the season, I was never in a crowd.
After arriving I went for a long walk along the beach, completely on my own and enjoying the light breeze and the typical smell of sea water.
And very relaxing is to look for beautiful mussels or at least for some patterns in the chaos.
When I returned I felt I had to do some exercise, took the bike and started to cycle along the road to west. It would lead around the island with about 50 – 60 km. It did not come to that distance.
But what came was a sheep resting on a rock.
As the conditions were rather unfavourable with gusty winds and light showers of rain the pleasure was limited. On top of it I saw a golf course on the way (Lofoten Links), enquired about the booking situation and decided to cut short the round around the island…
I enjoyed every minute on the 9 holes I played. Not knowing the details was costly in lost balls (although when I search for mine, I always find others). The strong side and head wind gusts added to the challenge. But what a scenery and excitement to be there at all.
The club rooms were only average but the shower after sports is always unbeatable.
There was no suitable spot for parking the motorhome overnight, so I decided to head for Borg. There was free parking near the Viking Museum.
The day has come to approach the “real” Lofoten. In 2017 I came until Svolvaer and this year I will dive further into the islands to the very end in A.
Side stepping from the main road to a small, small village and ferry docking station.
Another little detour to a remote cap.
Fotos from Laupstad, fairy tale land.
Photos from Svolvaer.
Fotos from the way to and from Henningsvaer.
Loedingen is actually on the island of Hinnoya and does not belong to the Lofoten. Same for the island of Andoya where I headed first. Andenes would become the most northern point of my 2020 travelling season.
Fotos from the way to Andenes.
Fotos Andenes, most northern town on Andoya.
Impressions from the way back to the south to Sortland.
Second transfer day to the north.
After that long day again I was happy to find a small parking bay next to quiet road. The hut was attached to a picnic and barbecue area.
If it was not for the Lofoten, it would have been a bit weird to return the same way I came down yesterday. At least until Dombas, then the E6 turned north instead of north west (to Andalsnes).
Not much to report, one has to stay awake and concentrated on such a transfer day.
It will be an interesting day again. I checked the weather forecast for the region up to the Lofoten and was sad to see no improvements. So I decided to call it a day for this time and head south back to Denmark and heading for France Atlantic coast. And I booked the ferry in 4 days.
Visited that lovely gallery nearby of the church of Ringebu. Two charming ladies tried to get my cards working on the terminals, without success. Just as I thought to have to leave, they said, go in for free, it is not your fault. The saving was about 5 Euros.
Fotos Lillehammer
Visited a great coffee with a view to the fountain (Park Cafe’n / Storgata 26, 2609 Lillehammer), walked back to the vehicle and found the church and parked up at the bakken.
Only to be approached by a german lady who drove the same brand of motorhome like me, the FIAT Ducato Rotec. We looked at the details and found little differences, hers was just one year younger. And she had a garage in the back and therefore not my comfortable sitting arrangement.
And she convinced me during the conversation according to her Norwegian weather application, up in north the conditions will improve greatly. I am influenced so easily. I changed the booking of the ferry to 14.09.20 and headed back north.
The daily routine included a healthy breakfast with a banana, half an apple and one small orange or some other smaller fruit. Topped with granola and a fruit- or plain-yogurt. And always a cup of green tea with a squeezed lemon juice. So also in Geiranger. The planned distance to Andalsnes led via the Trollenstigen and was only 86 km. But I knew also high up some mountain passes. Still there was no hurry to depart.
First stop an Gudbrands Bru (bridge)
Moving on uphill again.
Arrival Trollenstigen with grumpy weather. Still astonishing scenery.
Astonishing road work engineering.
Great restaurant nearby. Had a coffee and snacks.
It is only a short distance from Trollenstigen to Andalsnes. Found free parking near the harbor. There were three parked Hurtigruten vessels under refurbishment.
I cycled around town with the main aim to find a bicycle shop. I needed some chain oil urgently. The ride on the beach of Hirtshals left salty sand on the gears and chain. Luckily I found one. Peaceful night.
On Monday, 17.08.2020, I left with my motorhome for the north. The plan was to come back to the Lofoten after 2017 and to cycle with the tent and explore this part of the world in more detail.
The only preparation was to select some recommended routes through “beautiful” landscapes from the website of a travel agency for Norway.
Website: https://www.norwayprotravel.de/norwegen/mit-dem-auto.html
Whereby one “must” destination was the Geiranger Fjord.
After one week in the Fjord area the persistent rainy weather motivated to change the plan for this time and head south again much sooner.
Only to find the weather improving on the way to Lillehammer. At the parking up near the “bakken” for the ski jumpers I met a German lady who by accident drove the same brand of motor-home like mine (FIAT Ducato ROTEC) and she voted strongly that I still give it shot. Her Norwegian weather application promises good conditions in the north for the forthcoming week.
I can be influenced so easily… -:) – But I never looked back and had a smashing time on the Lofoten…
On that first day the the excitement to travel again was pushing me until close to Hamburg, some 985 km with few brakes. Stopped then at a highway parking area Rastanlage Harburger Berge West and it did not take long to fall asleep.
Fotos Hamburg
Fotos Kiel
Fotos Flensburg
Fotos Aarhus
Fotos
Fotos Thisted
Fotos Aalesund
Fotos Hirtshals in later afternoon. Waiting for the ferry next morning.
Fotos
Fine weather at arrival.
Changing its mind swiftly.
Fotos
Between Ogna and Stavanger along the coast.
Stavanger
Fotos from the day of waterfalls and rainbows.
Fotos from the road.
I had two options from the Navi and asked a couple which was on an early morning walk. They recommended the road over the mountains “Fardalvegen” as more beautiful. So I did. The very first ascent from Oevre was so steep so that I needed to use first gear in every hair pin bend. Unfortunately no hand free to take photos, only further up.
Summary until here:
My motorhome and I weathered the storms and were quite pleased to have arrived at Geiranger. Even in this dull weather it surpassed my imagination. As so many times before, changing a dream into reality is fantastic.
The following stages of the tour around Norway will be in a new post.