Day 11 for the records. Cosmin and Marco Polo warned me of the rather aggressive traffic in Bucharest. But my plans to reach the city center with the most points of interest evolved like this: Walk to the nearest stop of the hop on – hop off buses. But they start only after 10 am. Cycle to that. Hmmm Cycle to the main boulevard and see what happens. Great choice. Nothing special happened with the traffic and I cycled safely all morning.
City Palace
Arc de Triumph de la Bucharest
Well kept parks and gardens all around the city
Relics of the past
Bucharest was a busy place but much better organized than I had imagined. Plenty of impressive buildings and squares, restaurants and cafes, parks and churches. Time to move on and head for one of the main targets of the journey: The Delta of the mighty river Danube.
FIRST VIEW TO THE BEGINNING OF THE DELTA OF THE DANUBE
Renewable energy all around
Rainbow welcome
TULCEA is not a really posh place, but it is the gateway to the Delta of the Danube. Stayed here overnight.
Day 10 for the records. Breakfast at Cosmin’s parents and small talk as good as possible. His father guided me to a free parking ground and then drove me to the area where Cosmin wanted to meet me for coffee. Intense conversation about the world and God. About the truth and money. We found completely common ground, that Jesus is Lord and this makes even sense from a logical point of view.
Cosmin’s parents, so kind and hospitable.
Ramnicu Valcea
Left for Bucharest about lunch time and had the welcome tailwind. Found the planned Restaurant Parking area, but looked for a supermarket parking lot nearer to the city center. Google Maps guided me through increasing traffic safely to a Penny Market. Found a spot near a side wall, went for some little shopping, was not noted and stayed there all night (again).
Hide on the side
Open until 22:00
Not much more to say about this day, I left only at lunch time and after arrival went shopping, asked a young lady for a coffee with Wifi. She offered to guide me to it, it was literally around the corner. She did not have time to have a coffee, unfortunately. But I had time to organise photos, do some posting and enjoy myself.
I say quite a challenge how to sightsee in that busy place. But tomorrow will be another day.
Relaxed morning at Penny’s parking and at about 8:00 I left for the short stretch to Peles Castle. They should open at 09:15. Maybe I can walk around before that and even find a C+C somewhere nearby. Parking cost me 30 Lei / 7 Euros despite attempt to negotiate. It was really cold with 6 dgr C and humid. But the walk up from the parking to the castle was warming me up a bit and really a pleasant exercise. I found some stalls in preparation for the public holiday and a dominating restaurant across the even more dominating castle. I tried my luck and went in and found some seven ladies chatting around a large desk. Can I have a coffee, please? I caused some amusement, they all smiled at me and one jumped up and said, of course. Anything else? Yes, a croissant if you have. Of course….
Peles Castle in the morning from the road leading up to it.
Good mood
Good food
Picturesque yard
And picturesque gardens
Asked a lady, she tried hard…
He might be King Leopold I. Reminded my quite to Dr. Livingstone in Vic Falls. Is that strange?
*
As on the 1st of May they only opened the ticket shop at 10:15 and I heard a guide saying that the tour through the interior is only very short I gave it a miss. Strolled around a bit longer and back to the car.
The next target was now Curtea Arges. Took directions from Garmin which I had already checked the day before. Led to a long and winding very hilly road, but the alternative was about 1 1/2 hours longer. As the next fuel station was not at the corner of the turn off I had to turn around for one on the previous main road. Only then to seed that Garmin found now out that the main road is only 5 minutes longer. Filled diesel a bit later and had an ok passage.
Only rather rarely you see this traditional way of transport on the main roads.
Curtea Arges
Arriving mid afternoon a little tired I was re-energized by the beauty of the monastery, which hold some King’s thumb.
Inside Church
Inside Chapel
From Arges I drove to Ramnicu Valcea to meet Cosmin, a friend of Sara whom she met in Brazil and is still in touch with him. The route led across a hill with a road in an unspeakable bad condition. Not only potholes but sunken “basins” on the side demanded superior driving skills, which I possess, of course… 🙂
We met where he pointed me, he then guided me to his parent’s house where I was invited to stay over. But before they fed me like a king. As the Easter weekend was just over, there were leftovers just welcome for that occasion of an surprise visitor. Very grateful to meet some locals after all and to be able to ask about God and country.
Day 8 for the records. Smooth ride to Brasov, after a short search found parking near historic center. Light but stubborn rain. But there were meters which only took coins, no cards. Did not have any Lei yet. Asked in the hotel lobby. No currency exchange. Pointed me to up the road. Hoped not to get a ticket in the meantime, found ING DIBA Bank, but only ATM. So drew money in local currency, 200 Lei, cost me 45,2 Euro. Asked in the hotel lobby again, but even no till, no cash, no splitting of the 10 Lei note. Funny enough, the money collectors from the parking meters came just then and changed the note for me. As in Timisoara I walked slowly in the rain to town enjoying low level of actions all around.
Main square in light drizzle
Watch more lines..
No photos allowed in Black Church
Famous wall carpets
Black Church
The town hall is in the center of the square, quite unusual they say..
No day without coffee and croissant
Town Hall again
This where the battle for coins happened in the morning. Of course the rain had subsided when I finished my tour.
My aim was actually to go now to Sinaia for Peles Castle and then carry on to Curtea Arges for the Monastery with the King’s tombs. Other then I was caught in (Orthodox) Easter traffic and at some stage did 20 km in 2 hours. That just led me to Saina where I was welcomed with a hefty thunderstorm. Luckily I found a spot at a Penny parking lot and could relax and even have my home cooked supper. There was no thinking of visiting the castle that afternoon any more.
Later I had the desire to still find a coffee shop with Wifi to do some postings. For that I drove to town which was up about 50 m higher and crowded with Easter holidaymakers and their cars. At the end of the main road I turned right even further up in a steep and winding road. What do you do here Hartinger was a valid question! Only to find a negative one way street ending in a bend I just accessed. I turned around and parked there reversing into the space. A few steps further were the stairs leading back to the main road and across the road was the coffee shop with Wifi and excellent products and very friendly staff.
Just as I imagined.
When I finished my postings I returned back to the Penny ground and had a peaceful nights rest.
Day 7 for the records. Had a quiet night at the parking lot and did not bother for a breakfast at home but speculated with the usual a bit later. To start the cycling there is a procedure: unlock the wire lock, unlock the rack fasteners, lift down the bike, loosen the handlebar bolts, turn the handlebar 90 degrees, tighten the bolts, put lock and key into bar-bag, mount speedometer, mount head- and tail-light. In reverse when I come back. So it is a very important decision whether you go for the bike or go for a walk. Here in Hermannstadt I went for the bike, which was perfect. As most of the time I did not look into a map, followed my nose, the crowd and my instinct and found enough points of interest.
Main square with town hall which looks like a church, they say.
The “Lie-Bridge”. When a liar crosses over, the bridge will collapse, the legend says. Imagine….
Again I attended the service in the Orthodox Church for a short while enjoying the singing (from the others) and the relaxed spirit. Cannot remember being in Church so frequently. Why there are so well visited services is because it is the Orthodox Easter Weekend.
One of seven defense towers and the city wall on the right. The Siebenbürger came from Germany and knew how to organize life and protect their place.
Street back to the center
Although I had my relaxed coffee time I finished my excursion in about two hours. So I found it was time to move on. I had studied my Marco Polo in the morning and found a recommended “adventure tour” to the north towards Schässburg. I followed it step by step on this friendly sunny day.
The whole area is famous amongst other things for their fortified churches. This one is in Schechen. As typical for the Germans, int times of trouble these fortresses could shelter all the villagers including life stock. Climbed up a shortcut through the bushes.
Current
Churches
Medias
City wall
Birtan, surely the best kept fortress of all. What a presence. Another one, top right.
I reached Schässburg about 16h and hoped for a parking near the historic city. Turned to Penny parking lot and started on foot. 500 m later was the staircase to the hill.
Now in Schässburg (Sighisoara). View from the hill of the historic city.
Central Clock Tower
Center
The lovely main square with outside tables and chairs to dine and wine is posh.
Looking at all the stops and paces I had an unbelievable day of beauty. Needless to say I walked 10.000 steps plus, no bike after Hermannstadt at all. Remember the procedure. Another gift from the heavens was finally a camping ground in town. In the planning with Google Maps I found only one out of town in a hotel garden. This time Garmin made its point and directed me to Aquaris Hotel and Camping. Could even maintain my motorhome for water and sanitation.
Day 5 for the records. Early start about half past six. Easy going out of the city of Belgrade. Fill up the tank and get the daily cappuccino with croissant before the border to Romania. Border procedures relaxed, a very attractive lady on the Romanian side. She advised me that I can drive until Timisoara and only then by the road tax. So I did. The guy at the fuel station was kind. Instead of forcing me to by for 30 days, offered me 2X7 days. First surprise. Was more work and less income for him. Looking for parking there was quick. I asked at a another fuel station near the city center and they said I could even stay overnight. Second surprise. On the bike with pullover and wind breaker, it was chilly and windy.
Timisoara
Moving service
Another Orthodox Church with broadcasting the service to the outside via speakers. The priests and the choir sing alternating and that very beautiful and I for myself and some others were pulled towards the entrance. As I described from Belgrade, movements, coming and going was accepted throughout the mess.
By following my nose I found this elegant river parade with restaurants all along.
Some of the many flower arrangements along my short cycling tour around town.
In Chinatown in San Francisco they have their red balloons. Here in Timisoara they are more pragmatic, but not less colorful.
The big main square with other historic buildings and my fitness and transport aid mountain bike.
As Timisoara was not as large as I thought I decided to drive on to Hermannstadt, Sibiu in Romanian. The weather was cold and wet anyway and gusty winds as usual. But this time I had strong tailwind which was welcome for the mileage of my vehicle.
Tailwind
Cockpit
One can feel the tail wind, can’t one?
Here the small village of Sibiel. On arrival I forgot why I planned to visit that place. Walked around, enjoyed my time, found no hint. Left soon for Hermannstadt. After about 20 minutes I remembered: they host a famous collection of Ikonen. But they had closed when I arrived anyway. Getting old slowly… Parking in Hermannstadt (Sibiu). After a short circle around the center I found this public parking lot for 2 Lei/hour (= 0,25 E/hour) for max. 24 hours. In perfect walking distance to the historic city.
I must mention this. I cannot count any more the number of little prayers for little things like parking, a reasonable coffee shop with Wifi, a currency exchange and so on. It makes me very grateful that God is watching over me.
After posting from the Cafe a few more shots afterwards. The Dome of Holy Sava has escaped me until then. As it is probably the most visited place in Belgrade, it would have be a shame to miss it.
Way to Work
Dome of Holy Sava
Inside
Rather posh
Some of the nuns who visited held their hand in front of their mouth, surley in awe, but maybe also asking how much help for the poor could have been provided…
Stadium of OFK Belgrade
At the end of the day I had cycled some 38 km, 50 % of it quite up and down, but never steep. At the camping ground I quickly reparked my motorhome to a spot where the Wifi is strong enough to do some posting. What a smart move, one hour later the yard was full again.
Day 5 for the records. Took my bike and rode to town. Found another Castle and although riding at least one circle, found some or most of the places of interest. As so many big cities, also Belgrade has many faces. From posh to poor and neglected. I followed partly my offline map and partly my nose and had a great day so far.
As the rain caught me about 01h00 when I anyway looked for a coffee place, I was forced to stop at one near the merger of the river Sava with the Danube. And they have Wifi on top of it where I managed to catch with up some postings. My guardian angel seems to be a great tour guide as well…
Overview of the merging rivers Sava and Danube
Pouring down at river Save
Water World
Castle
National Assembly
The classic from southern side of river Soave
Orthodox Church
Service
The service was in full progress, actually the holy supper was celebrated and the bread and wine was offered, still the people moved around all the time also with visitors like me coming and going. It felt a very peaceful place to me. A source of strength.
Day 4 for the records. Looking at a large scale map yesterday I wondered whether I had chosen the most sensible route at all. To cut it short, I decided to change: instead of going to Timisoara in Romania I headed south to Novi Sad and Belgrade. The latter I had in mind on the way back from Skopje and turn off to the Madura Caves in Romania I had to sacrifice the caves, but the total distance was reduced by almost 1.000 km. Timisoara would come then on Sunday, 28.04.19 and not further changes until Thessaloniki.
Caste Novi Sad with my faithful companionA location of a life time
St. Peter’s Church
A dominating river Danube
Short break from the kitchen
Another travel companion
Spotless City Center
And all around
Street parking
Street parking. Asked another cyclist for the parking arrangements. There was a board with a mobile phone number. He said it is a Public Holiday, actually Easter Weekend for the Orthodox Church. The parking is free then. He also explained a short history of Novi Sad with Queen Maria Theresia awarding the town rights to them. Took me some circles in town until I found my way back.
Helping with directions
Late arrival
It was not the day of successful navigation at all. Near Belgrade I ended up in this rural area following my Garmin with correctly spelled address, but it was one of more of the same. This gentlemen, obviously a keen cyclist as myself, followed me because he guessed my misery. In his mother tongue Serbian he explained to me, I must go back to town. Cost me about 20 km over all and one hour.
Not the most romantic camping ground, but very well located and very friendly welcome and fellow travelers. Good end, all well…
Day 3 for the records. Took the map with the hop-on-hop-off bus tours which I received from the camping reception and it was very useful. I drafted a route from the outer skirts to the inner. Took my bike and went off and must say, it went very well.
Already yesterday Budapest exceeded my imagination by far, today would only confirm that.
Good morning in Bratislava, shopping and another round through town with the bike. Weather much better than yesterday. Found government’s palace at time for changing of the guards. Exactly two soldiers were commanded by one officer for the change.
What a difference the sun makes… also in Bratislava.
Government’s palace and “Changing of the Guards”.
Departure towards Budapest at about noon, again gusty south easterly winds, arrival about 16:00 at the camping site after heavy stop and go traffic in the city. After check-in on the bike again up to Fisherman’s Bastion with that great view over Budapest. On the way back quickly to the nearby Castle. Looking forward to tomorrow’s discovery ride.
First impressions from Budapest, palaces and bridges, two melted towns. ***
Fisherman’s Bastion ***
Houses of Parliament
St. Stephan’s Dome
The view of a life time from Fisherman’s Bastion
Inside the Castle
All posers
Haller Camping in the city center ideal for all excursions.
After a relaxed morning and breakfast with Ingrid I left at 08:00 a.m. as planned. Last additions to the equipment e.g., warm rain jacket and hat proved immensely valuable later the day. Quickly draw some cash in town and then join the highway direction east to Bratislava via Vienna. Strong and gusty south easterly winds called for maximum attention. Quick stop in Steinhäusl for coffee and croissant. Payed 10 € toll at the border and reached Bratislava around 11:30. Finding parking proved challenging as Garmin found only park garages. But after about one hour I found my spot quite hidden near a restaurant and near the big bridge. Take the bike and jacket and hut and ride to the castle and the historic city center. All in light drizzle. Only at about 15:00 rain became a little more.
Border to Slovakia
Parking after long search
First relaxed view of the Danube and the Castle *
At the Castle
Overview
Broader view
Just a dizzy look down from the Castle
Quaint yards and squares
Took the pictures, had another coffee and croissant (c+c) at Mackies and headed for my motor home. Asked the restaurant manager if I can stay over night. He directed me to a camping ground which Garmin did not know. On the way to it after 5 minutes I saw some other motor homes among other cars on a parking ground near the river Danube. One spot under a tree was left open for me. As outside temp is around 11 dgr. C, I activated my central heating. Had to switch to gas bottle 2. All in all you have to make the best of it.
The idea to visit the Delta of the Danube came watching a TV documentation called “Universe” about the area a couple of years ago. Similar to many dreams it took some time to make it happen. And once you travel that far, it makes sense to me not to come back the same way, that would be a sin, but find a circular path.
My route planning tries to accomplish that circle. Google Maps indicates for this about 5.900 km, but the sum of the detailed plan is about 7,100 km and about 37 days.
Summary:
I visited 14 countries in 33 days and traveled about 6.700 km. One of my favorite quotes is from Mark Twain: “We travel to compare our imagination to reality.” Realty surpassed my imagination regularly all the time and the beauty of countries, landscapes, cities and foremost of the people I met was just overwhelming. I always ask God to upgrade my support with 3 additional guardian angels (to have one on each side of me) and I am so grateful that the only incidence was a broken bulb in Croatia. And yes, a stolen Mountain Bike in Kosovo, which is bearable.
My Motor-home
FIAT DUCATO ROTEC
Alkoven bed
Cooking and dining
Trip plan:
DETAILS
I changed the plan on route because of new insights and just additional attractions. See in the report.
Planning Cost:
After some unfortunate experience in Russia I wanted to be in charge of ALL cost including fuel, telephone and data roaming. Worth my while.
