We travel to compare our imagination with reality.
Motorhome to Scotland and Orkney and Mt. Saint Michelle
Stopped a couple of times on Autobahn fuel stations.
Coming home to Haag safely.
A remarkable journey around Germany, Netherlands, Belgium, England, Scotland and France comes to an end.
I posted most of these blogs during the Corona shutdown around the year change form 2020 to 2021. I re-lived a wonderful journey and enjoyed every minute working on it.
On my way towards Germany I headed eastward and stopped in Courtenay for a coffee with croissant. What else?
To be honest, I just looked for a lunch break during driving and found Troyes, which I never heard of anyway. What a pleasant surprise again to discover this charming city.
From the church to the market.
I love symmetry.
And panoramas.
And water features.
I moved on to Strasbourg and searched long for parking or camping. Found the camping ground but they were fully booked and rather inflexible. They could have allowed me to wait whether everybody booked really comes. They did not. Not recommendable.
So I carried on to Germany and stopped at an Autobahn Fuel Station.
I did not mention in yesterday’s report that I stopped at a highway fuel station for the night. I headed east again towards Germany and Austria.
55 km before Orleans I found Schloss Châteaudun. What a beauty.
In Orleans I parked at the river Loire opposite the city and rode my bike to town.
A bit further up is already an image oft this hotel and court yard. Now, one hour later it was used for a celebration of the French National Holiday. They had representatives from the US Army around in their original uniforms. Also vehicles were on show from 1945.
One of the vehicles was a Dodge troop transporter which I had driven in my military training in 1979. Can you believe that? It was not a question that I could take a seat and get photographed by the US Army.
About 15 km “behind” Orleans was Jargeau, which had a small parking lot for motor homes. Quite quaint views.
Who has not heard of Mont St Michel? I did and it was on my bucket list for a long time. Today was the day.
The camping site was near, so I took the bike once more and left it before the long bridge and mingled with the crowd. Medieval through and through the place moves you back in time automatically. Everything has style and charm and quality.
I was blessed by being able to attend the end of a church service, where the nuns sang as a small choir with a mystical sound in that high cathedral.
Wandering from level to level one has views over the Channel or inland or is drawn into court yards and chambers.
It is such a center of positive energy that I did not want to leave on the same day. On the other hand my time came slowly to an end and I carried on east bound to Rennes.
My blessings did not seize. Rennes offers stylish architectures and splendid restaurants, pubs and cafes.
On the ferry to Cherbourg-Octeville in France.
I was hoping for better weather in the south. Hope dies at last, on the road to Mont St. Michel it stayed dull.
The camping site is well organised end efficient. They have the turnover.
http://www.camping-montsaintmichel.com/
This would be special day. I visited good friends from long long back at their country cottage near Oxford. And later on I drove to Stone Henge in the Salisbury Planes. It should be no secret that I am mad about the Neolithic Sites.
The mystery of this center of energy is still under investigation. Austrian scientists are leading the wider area research from an helicopter using Radar and Sonar technology. They discovered a huge far reaching structure of stones and paths and type of canals. For me the presence of Stone Henge is nothing short of the Pyramids of Egypt or Macchu Picchu in Peru.
After that intense visit where I moved backwards and forwards in time in my imagination (-> time-travel.net), I carried on to Pool to cross over the Channel tomorrow to France.
For France I had in mind the Normandie and Bretagne, but detailed targets. I was lucky enough to get recommendations and hints from friends and neighbors. One would be “Carnac” with many large fields with hundreds of Menhirs. Equally intriguing.
From parking in Morecambe to parking in Oxford at the house of good friends. Not much to report from the English motorways…
As I parked very near to the ALDI shop, what sounds more attractive than fresh croissants for breakfast? What a treat in the morning.
Moving back south with just a few short stops. Time for better weather all together.
Some roads had unstable shoulders on the side of the road. As I sat in a left hand driven car and had to drive on the left side of the road, judgement to oncoming motor home traffic was tough at times. It resulted in 4 hits on one Sunday. And one to the four broke the right outer mirror. I just could fix it with cable strips not to loose it completely.
I choose Morecambe for the stop over by chance because it got late and I got tired. Found parking quickly in a side road of a shopping complex and walked to the festival at the sea side.
The idea was to cycle to the northern side of Skye and visit some points if interest. One was the “Old Man of Storr“. A look out of the motor home showed some clouds in the background, but all in all it was very promising.
But just after one Kilometer of cycling the background came strongly to the foreground and I had to put on the rain jacket. I only made it to the first attraction, Old Man of Storr. There were about 15 – 20 people on the way up and down. With a group of younger guys I made it to quite close to the stone. But the last bit was very steep and slippery and there was fog and a gail force storm which almost blew us off the socks. The clouds were so dense, we only saw a ghostly image of it. Perseverance is also a virtue.
In rain and storm I cycled back and suffered a bit. But only the tough survive. In the motor home I quickly changed to warm clothing and put the wet ones onto drying ropes.
All set to drive around the island on four wheels.
Found the “Kilt Rock & Mealt Falls Viewpoint” on route.
Duntulm Castle was a bit lost in the distance, but one could imagine it interesting in different weather.
Other travelers persevered on two wheels and I felt a little weak. My excuse was afterwards, I did not have the perfect outfit for these conditions. And it was true. The way to Fort Williams led over the bridge around lochs and lakes. I found parking and a pub for dinner. All well.
Today the target was the Isle of Sky with the “capital” Portree. The drive was scenic as every day and I feel, one cannot get tired of it.
If you are lucky you find parking at a fine coffee shop with book shop attached and you meet Italians who are on a long distance cycling trip around the Scottish islands.
Fantastic views of Scotland’s shores and lakes and hills.
As it is called Isle of Sky it needs a connection to the mainland. It could be a ferry, a tunnel or a bridge. They choose an elegant bow.
My parking spot again was an act of bravery: searched down a small road into a little forest and found my niche across the town of Portree. Could not have been any better.
First a stroll to the top of the nearby hill. Found this magic jewel: The Cuillin Hills Hotel.
https://cuillinhills.dbm.guestline.net/
These pics are from the walk to town.
I took an extended stroll on the beach far out to the opposite side of my location. It was just peaceful, relaxing, meditative and energizing at the same time.
I love the micro cosmos and miracles of nature along the shores.
The panorama form the far end back.
This are the ruins of Balnakeil Church close to my paring spot.
From the ride to the south west to Ullapool I was again amazed about the beauty of the Scottish Highlands with their winding roads and rivers and waterfalls. You can also meet interesting people on bicycles like Tim from the Netherlands. He had this top special touring bike from Germany for about 8.500 Euros. Respect. I gave him a lift to find a coffee shop. We had to search deep into one of the fjords and found that charming place at the far end…
The camping ground at Broomflield Holiday Park was just outside Ullapool and very well organized.
http://www.broomfieldhp.com/
It was a westwards move from John o Groats to Durness along the north coast of Scotland. As one can see the weather was rather dull, driving along the sea side is still peaceful and relaxing. Never mind the narrow and partially one-lane-roads. All motorists play to the rules and wait at the next passing island and traffic really flows and flows …
Could not resist to play nine holes of Golf ad-hoc when I came along the Reay Golf Club. It was a fine links course, as they are only in the motherland of Golf.
https://www.reaygolfclub.co.uk/
Similar to the above images, this was the view from the parking site of the motor home – near Durness – and another Golf Club, by the way.
Finding this ideal location needed the courage to drive past Durness on a narrow winding road. Then I found some parking, but it was full already. So I carried on another one-lane-road to the Golf Club. And found my spot.
http://www.durnessgolfclub.org/
After a pleasant night in the tent I chatted to neighbors with a motor home. They recommended this beautiful coast line nature reserve.
This “bowling pin rock” was excavated by sea channels over thousands of years.
The young lady and her colleague were extremely helpful that I could get a ride on the bus back to the ferry. They went the extra mile to get the permission and the necessary wrapping material for my bicycle. Very special to me.
I had not eaten much yesterday and today. I was in a state of euphoria to find the archaeological sites and had no appetite at all. But when it hit me, I had some fish and chips, but it did not give me enough energy back to cycle to the harbor.
The first view in the morning was a little wet and not really encouraging a bicycle tour. But it cleared to a cloudy condition which was welcome …
I knew Orkney does have neolithic excavations and museums. Beside its remote geographical location this was the main motivator to go there. I found it just ideal to take the bike with tent and cycle around the island. It was tough, but also extremely rewarding.
The ferry took about one hour and the landing point had NOTHING to offer, not coffee shop, no other shop, no welcome procedures 🙂
First landmark on the road to Kirkwall was the Italian Chapel, which was built by Italian prisoners or war completely from scrap material.
A glimpse of Kirkwall, main town of the island.
Standing Stones of Stenness
Above are images from current excavations Ness of Brodgar and the Ring von Brodgar. To “catch” the Ring onto an image with an smart phone is a challenge, which I did not master.
The clear highlight of that day and one of the most impressive observations of ancient structures was Skara Brae. I was lucky to have a “private” tour with a really engaged expert lady.
My tour guide in Skara Brae recommended an informal camping ground nearby and I found it very well sheltered and even romantic.
It was a long ride up to John-o-Groats, the most northern town of Scotland. I visited Inverness a couple of times in the past. And despite the poor weather it was again a pleasure to stroll around and enjoy the typical architecture of the area.
John-o-Groats is remote, obviously. But that provides it’s magic and tranquility:
MOST NORTHERN POINT OF SCOTLAND!
Quite late I prepared for next day’s biking trip to Orkney. I do enjoy extreme landmarks :-
Edinburgh is such a fascinating city and has thousands of visitors anyway. They host that multicultural “Edinburgh Festival” with great formal and informal events of classical music, theater plays and the fringe comedians.
The variety of architecture is amazing and the harbor and views to the sea make it very special indeed.
Had a whale of a time in that street market. Chatted to a professional photographer about post production …
I cycled from the camping ground to town and all around. At the Festival area there was a huge crowd and I locked the bike away and enjoyed the thrill of street art and performances.
Today is a transit day with short stops to stay alert. One was in Gretna Green near an M6 Motorway junction.
Channel of River Esk
Coffee and scones made my day.
Approaching outskirts of Edinburgh. Found great camp site at Morton Hall.
Camping south of Edinburgh:
https://www.meadowhead.co.uk/parks/mortonhall/
Driving north bound to the Cotswolds and stopping in Moreton-in-Marsh to buy some cheese in “The Cotswold Cheese Company” with charming personnel.
Carry on to Broadway just to visit this legendary hotel again. The Lygon Arms.
The day only started to become explorative, so I carried on to Stratford-Upon-Avon, Shakespeare’s home town.
Finally driving to Knowle and to Hollywood south of Birmingham, where I also lived in the late 90-ties. Grimshaw Cottage is in Knowle and the current owner, a charming couple showed me around how they extended and improved the building. I was impressed to say the least. Hollywood is the bottom picture of this collection.
During my time in Birmingham I visited the city center often and this time I also looked around to maybe find some parking at a hotel. But all searching was in vain. So I drove northbound again. The goal was Scotland. It became later and later and finally dark night before I by pure luck found that parking lot at Aston Court Care Home and Hospital.
Oxford in 2019 meant going down “memory lane”. I lived the from 2000 to 2002 and enjoyed the place very much. They have the oldest purposeful built music hall in the world and I went there many Sundays for the “Coffee Concert“. Other highlights were a New Years Concert in the “Sheldonian Theater” built by Sir Christopher Wrenn (who also built Saint Paul’s Cathedral in London), a piano concert in the Apollo Theater with Vladimir Ashkenazy, then one of the top 5 pianists and conductors worldwide and last but not least, many weekend outings to nearby Cotswolds.
Oxford city center scenes
Cycling to the outskirt villages.This one is Radley, where I lived for 2 years.
Around Radley and the River Themse with the typical river boats and locks and inns.
My last item on the agenda of that day was to visit the BMW Oxford Plant where I worked from 2000 to 2002. It was great to see some of the structures I coordinated as project manager are still in place and working well.
This morning I took the bike again and rode around Brügge and found new smart places and enjoyed every minute.
The four apocalyptic horsemen.
Take the famous route Calais – Dover to the chalk coast and drive to Oxford Camping.
Oxford Camping was very well placed and was hosted by helpful people.